El Camino Portugués | The Van Bun

It all began in Lisbon…

The origins of this camino date back to early 2020 when Steph and I made a pact to do the Camino from Porto. I’m a Camino junkie and she is a curious newbie who is in love with the ceramic art of Portugal, especially in Porto. The plan basically created itself. More than 2 years and a pandemic later we finally made it happen.

The pre-Camino adventure begins in Lisboa where we are visiting Jonathan and Linda – fellow pilgrims turned friends whom I met on El Camino Norte in 2019. We joke that a stamp is needed for their apartment since they’re hosting pilgrims. We sleep in their guest bedroom which is adorned with Camino souvenirs, maps, credentials and pure Camino vibes.

We meet a new addition to their family, Cami, a rambunctious yet adorable dalmatian mutt that they adopted after being befriended by her on a recent Camino.

It’s my first time in Portugal and I’m surprised at how distinct it feels from Spain. The language is mostly incomprehensible (written is much easier to understand). The city feels more chaotic, the urban development more unstructured and free. There is art and graffiti everywhere. It reminds me of Galicia, of Latin America, of older, more classic times. There is a feeling of nostalgia and the good ol’ days. The windy, old-town, cobblestone streets
are even more ancient and awe-inspiring than I’m used to. It’s pure European historical porn. It never gets old for this California kid.

We spend a whirlwind 36 hours catching up, talking shop (Camino chats), touring the Almada district and Lisbon city center. Jonathan and Linda live in Almada, an 8 minute ferry ride across the river. It’s like the Oakland of Lisbon – working class with less tourists; yet feels more authentic with some of the best waterfront views of the city and bridge.

I’ve heard about the SF-Lisbon comparison and seen the of pictures but it never felt so strong until I actually lived it. I watched the sun going down over the nearly identical-to-Golden-gate-bridge as the sailboats flocked towards the horizon. The hilly city across the bay looked eerily like the one I grew up with and and knew so well from a previous life in my 20’s. The “cable cars”, the hills, the artistic and “feel free” vibes, spending time with lovely friends, having a picnic and forgetting that the outside world exists.

Top memories:
Delicious restaurant. Coastal night walk and elevator. Vegan Buffett. Steph flipando con la tienda de cerámica. Lovely sunset and park picnic. Cami turning into a cat-chasing monster. Late night lost dog adventure.
Next stop: Porto where the walking begins…

I brought too much stuff. About half of what is seen here was either eaten or sent back on day 7. One pair of clothes for walking, one for not-walking – ya está!

“Cable car” without the cable. Reminds me of SF, obviously.

So many beautiful and artistic tiles to take photos of.

Someone lives in that little space above the archway!

Jonathan and Linda were excellent tour guides – we were able to run down a cable car and hop on. The full tourist experience!

Steph is in heaven – we found the most wonderful ceramic store.

Good point, why do we love dogs, wear cows and eat pigs?? There were lot’s of vegan options in Lisbon – including a delicious all you can eat buffet!

Enjoying the pre-Camino hype in the Camino guest bedroom of El Albergue de Jonathan y Linda.

Cami being naughty, sneaking into our room and violating the ‘no doggies on bed’ rule.

J and L’s collection of Camino passports.

Beautiful light over the Golden Gate Bridge (de Lisboa). For the final night, we had a lovely picnic in a park with an excellent view of the bridge and bay.

Pre-Camino Exploring: Porto

We walked from the train station to the city center – the excitement of arriving at a new destination carried us along. The city is filled with beautiful things: building sized murals, ceramic tiles, ancient houses built on a sloping riverside coast. The geography reminds me of Bilbao – dense housing cascading up the hilly riverside, a funiculares, and high river crossing bridges.

The city center has a Disneyland feel to it – packed with tourists, street musicians, trinket shops, etc – yet still somehow feels very authentic and laid back.

We picked up our Camino credentials and basked in the excitement of knowing the adventure would start in less than 48 hours.

View from one of the many bridges of Porto.

There’s a funicular! The similarities between Porto and Bilbao are striking: both have funiculares, lots of bridges, city on a river, plenty of old-town vibes, music/art/young people. It happened to be cloudy and overcast in Porto, which further added to the Bilbao vibes. Porto felt much more touristy, though.

There was so much live music in Porto. This group of musicians drew quite a crowd. They took a long time to set up and do a sound check. It was an eclectic group; some young, some older, long hair, hippie vibes. I assumed they would play some artsy, original music – but they surprised us when they rocked very mediocre versions of “in the jungle”, a few Coldplay songs and the Rocky Theme. The best part was that they completely owned it while at the same time giving the tourists what they wanted.

Porto felt like we were traveling back in time.

I couldn’t get enough of the tall, thin, old-timey buildings that lined the river.

Look at that clean, unscathed credential! It’s the “Camino Passport” that needs to be stamped along the way; it serves as proof that the Camino was completed and allows Pilgrims to get their Compostela in Santiago. It’s also a really cool souvenir – by the end of it, it’s completely filled with unique stamps from all the coffee shops and albergues along the way.

Etapa 1: Porto-Labruge (26.3 km)

Dark, sleepy city. To the cathedral for the official start of The Camino. It will also end at a cathedral, 248 KMs to the north in Santiago de Compostela.

We exit the city along the river which is lined with decaying houses. It feels dalapadated and old fashioned yet still charming.

Into the coastal countryside. Sleepy beach towns. Lots of runners and cyclists. Tourist office oozing Camino vibes. Beautiful ocean views with calming sea breeze.

The sun comes out and saps our energy. Stops become more frequent. Backpack and gear adjustments are made.

Nearly 6 hours later we arrive at the albergue. There’s a handful of friendly pilgrims waiting for it to open. We introduce ourselves and share Camino stories, basking in the glory of completing our one mission in life – follow the yellow arrows and find a place to sleep for the night. It’s life, simplified.

Starting the Camino with some patented ‘go-juice’ (instant coffee).

The obligatory “start of the journey” selifie.

Quick stop at the central train station of Porto to see some beautiful ceramics.

The official start of the Camino – the Cathedral of Porto.

Only 248 KM’s to go. We look like we could use a few more hours of sleep. These signs would be posted all over Galicia, giving us a constant reminder of how many more KM to go.

Rusted out building on the outskirts of Porto as we left the city along the river.

The walk was beautiful, peaceful and empty.

After a few hours of walking, we felt like we were away from the city and officially in ‘small beach town’ territory.

We reached a stretch with dozens of giant buses, filled with kids on summer camp. I remember when I worked at a summer camp for 2 weeks in Northern Spain – as we walked by hoards of screaming children, I thanked the gods that I never have to be a camp counselor again. Fun experience looking back on it, though.

I wonder what this place is like at 2AM?

Starting to feel pretty tired. How much longer? The sun sucks the energy out of you.

Beautiful spot for a dip. We brought our swim gear: goggles, towels, suits but swam exactly 0 times. The Atlantic coast is colder and rougher than we expected – the most we did was dip our feet in. The waves were massive and scary!

We were the third group of Pilgrims to arrive to the Albergue. The municipal Albergues are usually ‘first come first serve’ – so we wanted to get there early to ensure we have a spot! It was our first day, so we were unsure of how big the crowds would be. In the end, we got there with plenty of time to spare – and the place never filled up.

Etapa 2: Labruge – Póvoa de Varzim (19.2 km)

Deep sleep from 21h-5h. On the road by 6h. Beautiful blue, red and pink sky. Boardwalk path along the beach, sand dunes and marine ecosystems. A few travelers in camper Vans with prime coastal position. Lovely pueblo of Vila Cha: seaside, coastal vibes.

After a few hours of peaceful walking we end up forming a group – an Italian in his 60’s who just walked the Camino Frances and wanted to keep walking, an American hospice worker who has dreamed of the Camino for the last 15 years and a Russian on her first Camino. We all had coffee together and exchanged excited hopes and stories about our experiences so far. After nearly 20 KM, our packs were feeling heavy and the sun extracted our energy – it was time to check in to the albergue – our companions continued onward. Maybe we’ll see them in Santiago!

I’ve never seen so many phone booths – they were all over Portugal! This one was particularly striking – it was just sitting in someone’s overgrown front lawn!

More boardwalk walking. The boardwalks were nicely maintained and allowed us to be very close to nature without destroying it. It was remarkable how long and extensive they were.

Our new Pilgrim friends. Steph and I decided to stop walking – we had already done 20 km and it was hot. Steph’s backpack was causing her pain and we were exhausted from our first night sleeping in an Albergue (it’s an adjustment to sleep with random people who oftentimes snore).

Etapa 3: Póvoa de Varzim – Marinhas (25.5 km)

We are all floating in a tremendous river and the river carries you along. Some of the people in the river are swimming against the current, but they are still being carried along. Others have learned that the art of the thing is to swim with it. You have to flow with the river. There is no other way. You can swim against it, and pretend not to be flowing with it. But you still flow with the river.
Alan Watts

Learning how to let go and let the Camino give you what you need.

Rough night of sleep the day before – we were unlucky to be in the same room with a horrendously loud snorer. #CaminoLife

Misty, foggy, gloomy morning. A nice respite from the ferocious sun.

Groups of young party-goers were drunkenly stumbling home – we even got a synchronized “buen camino!” from a smiling bunch of dudes.

The boardwalk mist continued. A robust platform, leading us to our next destination.

A stop in the sand to release frustration and throw rocks into the sea. There’s no hiding your demons from the Camino.

Snaking inland through eucalyptus groves, through decaying villages and over rickety rivers.

Where will the Camino take us next?

As we began our Camino, hoards of party-goers streamed into the street. We could still hear the techno music blasting from the seaside venue. Two different worlds colliding.

Old man fishing. We both took out our cameras to grab this image; too perfect.

The Camino signs are everywhere – a constant reminder that we’re going the right direction. It makes life decisions easier – just follow the damn arrow!

Final stretch to the Albergue on the third night. We decided to save a few KM by walking directly on the road (as opposed to heading inland and walking on the coast). The road was busy and the sun was devastating. It was a 30 minute walk but felt like 2 hours! We vowed to always take the scenic route next time, even if takes a bit longer.

Etapa 4: Marinhas – Viana do Castelo (25 km)

Why does one decide to walk a Camino?

Adventure. Meeting new people. Physical fitness. Introspection. Inspiration Healing. The act of walking. Life simplified. Seeing new worlds from your two feet. A feast for your eyes. Constant novelty. Living 5 lives in two weeks.

Suffering.

Why is (healthy) suffering an integral part of the Camino? It’s that first cafeteria after 3 hours craving the first espresso. Springing for a private room after 3 sleepless nights in an albergue full of snorers. Biting into freshly baked portugués whole wheat nut bread after a 1 hour slog on a busy and sunny road. Feeling lonely, tired and questioning why you did this – only to have your spirit lifted by a friendly fellow pilgrims who walks with you for a few moments and gives smiles, a listening ear and a few dates for energy. Its when you fix your backpack after 3 days of chafing using an item you were carrying the entire time – problem solving and being delighted at the results.

The lows make the bright moments shine that much more radiantly. The problems are simply challenges to overcome. Feet hurt, legs burn, knees ache but life is suddenly so much more vivid and meaningful.

We could just drive to Santiago, but where’s the fun in that?

#AlbergueLife. Another rough night of sleep for Steph. Got to learn to love using the earplugs!

We saw lots of tractors and old farm vehicles in the cobblestone backroads.

There were plenty of picturesque fields of corn.

Striking sculpture in the front lawn of a residential house.

We ended up stopping next to this church for a snack with a group of fellow pilgrims. It was nice to catch up with some friends we met in the first few days as well as meet some new people. It’s easy to socialize on the Camino – we’re all in it together and there’s plenty to talk about: blisters, where you’re planning to walk for the day, complaining about people snoring, etc.

Final stretch, crossing the river to arrive into the city.

After 3 nights in an Albergue, we went “off camino” and stayed in a pension. It was nice to sleep in a quiet, private room. The disadvantage is that you feel a bit less connected to the Camino: there are no pilgrims around, no camino vibes, no communal meals. However, sometimes it’s absolutely necessary to replenish resources, get some sleep and re-enter the camino with a newfound sense of purpose and excitement.

There was a local festivity happening in Viana de Castelo – I was lucky enough to catch these talented young musicians playing some traditional music as the sun slowly set.

Day 5 – Viana de costela a Ancora (20.5 km)

We followed the historical Camino which snaked through the bucolic hills above the ocean. Around every corner was another stunning, picturesque view of an ancient farm home on a cobblestone street. The entire road seemed swallowed up by the vegetation.

After a stop at a lovely, creekside café – we descended through the Forest to the flatland and entered a residential area. It was getting time to look for an albergue but according to a group of pilgrims we talked to, everything was booked due to a local festivity. We called a few places and it was true – no space available. For a brief moment we worried that we would have to sleep in the street. In a final desperate move, we decided to call a place that was 10 KM in the wrong direction and just take a cab there.

It was ‘Horacio’s guesthouse’ and Horacio himself answered the phone. Not only did he have room, he offered to come pick us up. 15 minutes later, a smiling Portuguese man shows up and whisks us away to our home for the night. He’s an embodiment of the Camino and hospitable spirit; so welcoming, kind, helpful and exuding pure passion for helping pilgrims on the Camino. He’s a retired Colonel from the Portuguese army and his passion project is his guesthouse. It’s a lovely home 5 minutes from the sea. We had delicious Portuguese food from a nearby restaurant (they even had a vegan option) and then frolicked in the nearby sunflower patch and wild beach. It was a refreshing night and the next morning, Horacio drove us to resume the Camino at 6AM. Thanks Horacio!

Apparently there is an albergue up on that hill – we didn’t dare adding that much elevation to our walk!

There were so many old doors like this; oozing European charm!

We stopped for a lovely snack here in this hidden Cafe tucked away in the woods.

Horacio loaned us a few bikes and we cruised down to the beach (and sunflower fields) as the sun was setting. It was so peaceful and beautiful – definitely one of the highlights of our trip. It’s the small and simple moments that end up being so memorable.

Horacio, himself! We communicated only in Spanish; his English is basic and our Portuguese is non-existent. He worked in Colombia for many years so he became fluent in Colombian Spanish. Knowing extra languages definitely opens the door for connections and meeting friends! Next up, French…

Etapa 6: Áncora – Seixas (23.4 km)

It would be the last day of coastal walking. It was overcast and chilly, yet rugged and beautiful. We were surrounded by lush coastal plants and a mere stones throw from the powerful waves. Out of nowhere a pack of goats appeared, with a lone Sheppard supervising them. A few meters later we came across a tiny hermitage and am aggressively friendly man that insisted we get a stamp and then proceeded to show us relics and sculptures dating back to pilgrims who walked the same route as us in the 1600’s. It definitely puts things in perspective.

We pushed onward and arrived at the junction point between 2 options: continuing to hug the coast on the more scenic, natural route – or continue on the historical route where the ancient pilgrims actually traveled (not the current day tourist pilgrims like ourselves), which passes through the historical Portuguese cities of Caminha and Valenca . It also meant choosing to cross the river into Spain or stay in Portugal for 36 more hours. We love Portugal and weren’t ready to go back to Spain – so naturally we went for the historical route.

The first coffee break of the day was in Caminha, which boasts a beautifully preserved historic center – and just so happened to have a medieval fair going on! There was traditional music, all types of food and crafts, even artistic recreations of ancient pilgrimages.

We booked an albergue in the next town (2km away) and decided to spend the day taking in the festivities, planning the rest of the trip and relaxing! We even got massages (there was a massage booth). Yep, definitely not like the pilgrims from ancient times.

This massive herd of goats came out of nowhere!

There’s Spain! We could have taken a boat across the bay to enter a new country and continue along the coast. We opted for the historical route instead, staying in Portugal for 2 more days.

The long entryway into the coastal Portuguese town of Caminha.

Etapa 7: Seixas – San Miguel de Torre (28.8 km)

It would be the last full day in Portugal. I vowed to eat as much raisin nut bread as I could.

The walk did not disappoint. It never does. It’s the same act (get up, pack, start walking, find an albergue) – but the setting is completely new and YOU are completely new. The YOU of day 2 Camino is very different than the YOU of day 7 Camino. We (and the Camino) are constantly evolving.

Good scenery. A feast for the eyes. In the cobblestone back roads. Bucolic farms. Easy to stop for hours just admiring things, taking photos.

The Camino is like crawling through the magical wardrobe, living a completely new life and forgetting about the default world. We follow the yellow arrows instead of the yellow brick road. We have hopes and dreams and desires that can possibly be achieved by arriving in Santiago – but maybe the answer has been living within us the entire journey.

A highlight of the day was going to the post office and mailing 5kg of unnecessary stuff home. After a week on the road, one realizes what’s actually important. Our bags were weighing us down with extra clothes, gadgets and STUFF. We went super minimal and anything that wasn’t absolutely necessary got put in the box. Our bags were noticeably lighter and are feet felt more free.

We spent night in an albergue that breathes the Camino spirit. It’s run by pilgrims, there was a communal dinner and people from all over the world – former strangers but temporary close friends – shared several hour together, laughing, telling stories, being vulnerable and eating good food. Sometimes the Camino provides lifelong friends, friends for a few weeks, friends for a few hours over a meal or simply friends for a few seconds with a smile and a friendly “buen camino” greeting.

Chipper pilgrims ready for a 6AM departure.

Curious about how to draw the shell – what’s the correct angle??

First big break of the day where we firmly decided to send stuff home! We spent an hour or so organizing our things and deciding what was no longer absolutely necessary. We wanted to lighten the load in our packs to better enjoy the walk and relieve some of the achy joints at the end of the day. It was decided that my mirrorless camera would be sent home – so we did a series of pilgrim portraits of each other to savor the last few moments with the camera.

Nearly 5kg of stuff that we happily dropped off at the post office in a random village in Portugal. It was mostly extra clothes, my camera, packing cubes, long sleeves, etc.

Love the tiles and patterns in Portugal.

Etapa 8: San Miguel de torre – A porriño (27.1 km)

It was our last day in Portugal and we were sad to leave but also excited to return to the familiarity of Spain yet the unknown of the region of Galicia. Steph didn’t even realize we were going to Galicia; she was pleasantly surprised when she discovered that Santiago is in the community of Galicia, home of epic seafood and beautiful nature.

Saying goodbye to the friendly Czech couple from the night before. They were also a couple doing the Camino – he was doing it for the first time and she was an experienced pilgrim: Similar to Steph and I! We could definitely relate to the trials and tribulations of bringing your partner on Camino for the first time. It’s hard in the beginning, but the beginners slowly warm up to it! They also made a really good point – when you do Camino alone, the Camino is about YOU. When you do Camino in a couple the camino is about the couple and the relationship.

The Albergue even packed us a to-go breakfast!

Valença, Portugal. Not to be confused with Valencia, Spain.

Final raisin nut bread in Portugal. Loved that portuguese bread!

The stunning walled old-city of Valença.

Happy pilgrims saying goodbye to Portugal and crossing the bridge into Spain.

We crossed the bridge into Tuy, Spain. We immediately found a large group of LOUD Spaniards looking at the church. There’s definitely a difference in the culture between Spain and Portugal. Spaniards like to talk, all at the same time. Portuguese are a bit more quiet.

Etapa 9: O Porriño – Redondela (21 km)

We stayed at a comfortable, functional, new albergue the night before in O Porriño. The owners are Pilgrims themselves and had plenty of interesting Camino pictures, maps and decorations on the walls.

We were a few days into the Spanish portion of the walk and it already started to feel a bit more crowded. Many pilgrims start their journey from Tuy, the first Spanish city on the Camino Portuguese. Despite the crowds, one can still find solitude and privacy on the way.

The trail led us through country backroads that were mostly shaded and away from traffic.

We arrived at our destination, a lovely albergue just outside the town of Redondela. The albergue felt like a farmhouse; the owners and guests had a few dogs, the house was comfortable and there was plenty of shade for relaxing.

We cooked a meal and invited our albergue-mate, a woman from South Korea, to join us. It was a fun experience to exchange stories about our caminos over some warm food.

Owners of the Albergue doing the Portuguese way in the Winter. They said that it was nearly empty. It would be such a different experience than we had, doing it in the summer. The beauty of Camino is that each time is completely different, even walking on the same route.

Etapa 10 – Pontevedra (22.9 km)

We woke up feeling refreshed and rested at 5AM. After snacking on a nice breakfast provided by the albergue (thick slices of toast coated with peanut butter), we were off.

The temperatures were higher in Spain; thus the need to leave as early as possible. The predawn weather is ideal: cool, relaxing, calming, peaceful. We walked with headlamps while the world slowly woke up.

We marveled at the beautiful bay, cobblestone streets and picturesque old fashioned buildings in the pueblo of Arcade. As we navigated the narrow, winding streets – a friendly old woman yelled out the window “El camino está allí!”, indicating the right way to go.

After a quick coffee break to recharge the batteries, we pushed on towards Pontevedra. We both felt strong and we were making great time. The idea was to either stop in Pontevedra for a solid 22km day or head to the next albergue, which would be 10km further.

We reached the bustling city of Pontevedra and let the arrows guide us through the heart of the town.

As we looked for a tortilla refueling stop, we ran into a character from the start of our Camino – Richard, and chatty German guy – who proceeded to tell us how he was bitten by a cat, had to go to the hospital for a tetanus shot, lost the group he was traveling with and is now trying to figure out if he wants to do a different camino variant to arrive in Santiago. Each pilgrim has their own journey – there are infinite possibilities and adventures!

In the end we decided to quit while we were ahead and call it a day in Pontevedra rather than push it another 10km and risk overheating or completely burning ourselves out.

In the albergue, I met a French couple that had just done Leon to Oviedo (Camino San Salvador), then Oviedo to Santiago (Camino Primativo) and they were currently walking the Portuguese in reverse (Santiago to Porto). They weren’t the only ones doing multiple caminos in a row; it seemed to be a popular idea amongst the pilgrims that I chatted with. It can really hook you!

We were usually the first out of the Albergue, but people would usually catch up to us by the end of the day. We like to start early, but take plenty of breaks for pictures, snacks, stretches and relaxing.

The morning light makes getting up early worth it.

These structures were seen all over Galicia; apparently used to store grain and crops to protect against rodent infestations.

Etapa 11: Caldas de Reis (25 km)

After 10 days, we were really beginning to find our rhythm. Wake up, pack, walk, take breaks, walk some more, arrive, unpack, eat and go to bed. This stage seemed to fly by – we were well-oiled hiking machines!

The highlight of the day was going to a local Restaurant alongside a boardwalk on the river. Steph ordered a giant plate of seafood (the speciality in Galicia) and the garrulous owner, Benito, would come by and chat with us every 5 minutes, telling us about the traditions of Galicia, all the pilgrims he’s met over the years, his favorite ‘digestivo’ which is a white liquor infused with coffee and other entertaining stories. His adorable 9 year-old daughter was also roaming around throwing bread into the river for the ducks to eat, yelling “Ahora, vais a cenar!!!”.

It felt like we were hanging out in the house of a friendly local family. Benito’s prized possession was a notebook with words and drawings from all the pilgrims that had passed through. It was remarkable to read the memories of such an eclectic and international group of people – all whom had come before us and also enjoyed an evening with Benito on a beautiful boardwalk in rural Galicia, watching the final rays of light fade off into the distance.

Leaving Pontevedra in the early morning.

Etapa 12: Herbón (21.9 km)

This etapa would potentially be our second to last before reaching Santiago. I was especially looking forward to this albergue; it is a classic ‘donativo’ albergue that is run by volunteers who work for 15 days at a time. It came highly recommended from a Czech couple that we had met a few days earlier. The albergue is located in the Seminary of Herbón, in a beautiful rural location next to a river. This would be the authentic Camino experience that I was yearning for; intimate group of pilgrims, communal dinner, sharing stories, good ol’ fashioned hospitality.

Up until this point, we were staying at ‘macro-albergues’ (a term I just invented); functional, yet soulless places designed to house the masses of pilgrims but aren’t exactly conducive for meaningful connections or camino magic.

The experience did not disappoint. We were the first ones to arrive as we wanted to be sure to get a bed (no reservations are allowed in donativo albergues). We had about 4 hours until they officially opened at 16h, so we relaxed under the oak trees in a nearby field.

Pilgrims started to trickle in. An older Australian man. A German girl and Danish guy, around our age. A pair of Italians in their early 20’s. We made friendly Camino conversation as we waited for the albergue to open. A priest in his 80’s appeared out of nowhere. He had a disheveled look with wild white hair that reminded me of Doc from Back to the Future. His English was excellent and his voice was made for Radio. He was full of good humor, smiles, stories and curiosity.

The doors finally opened and after checking in and a quick rest, it was time for tour of the place. Our ‘guide’ was another volunteer who had actually attended the school as a boy. He spoke quickly, with a bit of a speech impediment – I was tasked with being the translator as most of our group didn’t speak Spanish. It was quite a challenge to have to use my brain after hiking nearly 30km in the heat.

It was fascinating to learn the history of the place; the life of a small boy going to school to become a priest.

At the end of the tour, our guide gave a really nice summary of finding meaning on the Camino.

The first few days are so painful. Your body hurts. Your feet hurt. You wonder why the heck you decided to do this. You could be at home, relaxing on your sofa.
You start to adjust to the walking. It slowly gets easier.
You then meet another pilgrim who talks to much and run away! (We’ve all been there).

You keep walking. You meet someone that you connect with and bond over shared suffering and experiences.

You keep walking.

You go inward. Examining all the baggage you’ve been holding onto. Hurt, Pain, Frustration. Family, Romantic Life, Work issues. Things come to the surface. As you walk, you process. You then start to take things out of your metaphorical backpack and toss the unnecessary items to the side. You leave them beyond. The pain, the suffering, the hatred. You unload the burdens and stay with the positive, nurturing items.

It gave us goosebumps to hear the Camino described in such a poignant way.

We had a communal dinner which was a great chance to further bond with our group. We were about a dozen people, so it felt much more intimate and meaningful than staying in the macro albergues.

It would potentially be our final night on the Camino. Santiago was about 30 KM away. It would be our longest day on the Camino, but with the excitement of arriving to propel us forward, we had high hopes for reaching the final goal!

Enjoying a 9:30AM hearty bowl of vegan lentils, pan and red wine. Channeling my inner ‘purple mouth’ (An infamous character on a previous Camino).

The many Camino routes through Galicia to reach Santiago de Compostela.

We went off-camino to find the elusive albergue de Herbón.

The famous ‘pimientos de Padrón’ are actually from Herbón!

Etapa 13: Santiago de Compostela (30 km)

Just like any other day, we were one of the first to leave. Out the door by 6AM, walking through the cool, peaceful dark towards Santiago.

There was an excitement in the air – “we can do this!”, we silently thought to ourselves.

The KM’s flew by; before we knew it, the Santiago KM signs were showing less than 10 km – when we started in Porto, it was over 250 km.

We passed the point of no return and booked our hotel in Santiago for 2 nights. This is happening!

In the final 5 km, We connected with a friend from yesterday’s magical albergue experience, Alex from Denmark and shared the final walk together.

We could see the spires of the cathedral from about 2 km away. The excitement grew to a crescendo. There it is! After 13 days of walking, countless hours, thousands of steps. The journey was coming to an end.

I recognized the park as we approached the city center, “I think we enter through that street!”

We dove into the old city center, filled with tourists and pilgrims from all over the world. It was a gauntlet, plenty of restaurants, shops, beautiful awnings. 200m away!

As we entered the square and looked up at the cathedral, a wave of emotions poured out. Sadness that it is over, excitement to have completed the goal, happiness to just live the experience. It was the culmination of so much energy, planning, effort and struggle – and we were sharing it with 100’s of other pilgrims that were also arriving. Steph and I embraced and congratulated each other: “We did it. Together. And it wasn’t easy”. Tears and happiness flowed.

The giant cathedral and square is a special place. Pilgrims from all over the world arrive. Emotions are overflowing. Some have walked for a week, others have walked for longer than 3 months. We take in the scene, congratulating each other – connecting with long lost friends, just sitting and marveling at the beautiful, historic cathedral. “We walked all the way here from Portugal, how cool is that!”

Pilgrims are constantly arriving; some alone, some in groups. Some are silent, some are crying, some are stoic. It’s an amalgamation of people from all over the world, experiencing their own personal journeys, yet converging on this vortex of humanity. It’s a beautiful thing.

After showering and napping in our (well deserved) hotel, we attend the ‘pilgrims mass’ in the cathedral. It would be the second mass in as many days – we also attended a mass at the Seminary the night before. Steph and I were raised Catholic, but neither of us practice. It was still a special experience. Even if one doesn’t believe in the specific religious doctrine, it’s impossible to not be moved by the ritual, the artistic beauty of the church and the core teachings of christianity which is to help those in need and try to be happy and spread joy to those around you.

We met up with a few of the others from the night before and had a celebratory pilgrims dinner afterwards. Beer, food and camino stories were flowing. It was a wonderful cap to an unforgettable experience.