Intro

I looked at my calendar for 2023 and it was filling up fast. There were plenty of fun trips and activities like visiting Ibiza, doing a grand North American tour and a potential van tour of Italy. However, it was lacking one thing: a Camino.

It had been less than a year since doing the Camino Portuguese with Steph. It was a challenging yet immensely rewarding and empowering experience filled with plenty of highs and lows. However, it left me yearning for a different type of Camino experience that can only be achieved when walking alone.

I wanted to go all in on “Camino”. No more half measures. No one week “quick Caminos”. It came to me in a flash, “I’ll do the Primitivo”.

El Camino Primitivo had long been on the top my list. I first heard about it in 2016 when I worked at an elementary school in Nájera, a village in La Rioja and coincidently, on The Camino. A local teacher recommended El Primitivo as an excellent 2-week adventure. At the time, I thought that it meant the “primitive camino” – meaning that it was more rural, less developed and required more backpacking gear. I was only partially right; it is more rural and mountainous than most Caminos, but you’re still in civilization – it’s nothing like backcountry camping. The name “Primitivo” comes from the fact that it was the “primer camino” (first camino) that was recorded in history.

The Primitivo plan was perfect; a nice mix of beautiful scenery, challenging mountain terrain, a clear start and end location (Oviedo -> Santiago) and enough pilgrims to have the camaraderie experience – yet not overcrowded like El Camino Frances.

But was it “enough” to quench my Camino thirst? Well, no amount of Caminos will ever quench the thirst. It’s like salt water. You just want more and more. It’s an addiction – there’s no doubt about that. But I would argue a damn healthy addiction – it combines physical exercise, contact with nature and forging strong bonds with other humans as you migrate in a temporary tribe of pilgrims.

The second thought again came to me in a flash. “I’ll do San Salvador first.” San Salvador is a 5-day Camino that connects the city of León to Oviedo, crossing some of the most desolate and beautiful mountains in Northern Spain. It had been recommended to me by several experienced pilgrims on previous Caminos. It was a perfect “warmup” Camino to The Primitivo. It would also give some much needed solitude and contemplation time.

I would walk from Leon to Oviedo and then Oviedo to Santiago. The logistics weren’t too challenging: Bus to valencia, train to Leon and start walking. Flight + bus to return home through Alicante. Ya está. Once I got it in my head, it was impossible to shake.

It would be my first true solo Camino. No more half measures.

Etapa 1: El Camino del Salvador

34.91 km

I was out the door by 7:30, fully loaded with warm gear for the chilly morning. I wore bike tights over hiking shorts, which worked well as a “convertible pants” option for when the temps increased a few hours later.

I backtracked to El Catedral de León to properly start the Camino. Beautiful morning whispers of light snaked across the empty plaza, but for a few fellow pilgrims – likely on El Camino Frances. I would share their route for a half kilometer before veering north along the Bernesga river, my constant companion for the rest of the day. The camino split into 2: the traditional direct route to Santiago along the Frances, or the mountainous, out of the way trek towards Oviedo. I chose the path less traveled.

It was a pleasant walk along the river, under trees and through creeks. Hardly a car could be seen or heard for the first two hours. I got only a few fleeting glimpses of other pilgrims. The birds were chirping and insects chatting.

It was nice to go alternate between a fast and casual pace and not have to worry about finishing before the temperatures became unbearable (which normally happens in July/August). I took plenty of breaks to stretch and snack. I tried to walk mindfully, to enjoy the moments, to just be. It felt fantastic to go a my pace, have the freedom to stop and go when I want and just let my body do what my body is meant to do.

The day kept going and the last 5km were s bit rough due to the road walking. Made it to the end of the stage, had a beer with lemonade at the local bar and stocked up on food for the next 3 days – which will be devoid of any markets or restaurants. The terrain will only become more mountainous and remote as the trail leads through the Cantabria range.

Etapa 2: Ancient Mountains

27.73 km

I woke up at 7AM after a peaceful night of sleep in the cozy albergue. I was wearing all my warm clothes, plus the sleeping sheet and a blanket – it gets chilly at night. After a hearty oatmeal breakfast, I was on the road – and the last one to leave. The 80 year-old Italian doing the El Camino Olvidado was long gone before I even rolled out of bed. Apparently he’s done over 20 camino and once walked from Italy to Spain. A Camino legend.

The Camino continued to follow the river, passing by some beautifully preserved aqueducts. The scenery was lush and green, the air felt more clean and mountainous. Groups of ladies were out doing their morning walk, an abuela zipped past me as I casually strolled along, admiring the rhythms of rural mountain life.

I finally felt like I was on Camino. The first day is always a bit awkward; “I guess I’m doing the camino now.” It doesn’t feel quite real. There is ‘imposter syndrome’ – I felt unsure of my Pilgrim status. After 24 hours I was settling nicely into the role of Pilgrim Patrick: sleep, eat, walk, repeat.

The first 10km were scenic and peaceful, mostly taking dirt back roads through the river valley and gaining in elevation ever so gradually. I stopped often to care for my feet – after only one day there were pre-blisters forming – I was hyper vigilant to care for them and make adjustments.

I reached the first village of La Pola de Gordón. It was bustling and full of life. I went to the mercadillo and purchased some gloves for the cold and blister supplies at the pharmacy. The worker at the tourist office gave me some Camino gear (bandanna and pin) and took a picture to post on their Facebook page. This camino isn’t too crowded – you definitely don’t get that treatment on the Frances!

After a nice refuel of tostada de tomate, I pushed onward. The Camino was mostly road for the next 5km. Sharing with cars isn’t fun but the setting was idyllic and the vehicles were scarce. After entering the deserted Pueblo of Buiza, the Camino led into the mountains – no more civilization.

Spring wildflowers lined the hills, the trail snakes through mini forests, massive snow capped mastiffs could be seen in the background. The wind gently blew across the fields, shaking the flowers as if they were dancing.

I arrived in the albergue deep in the mountains. The 84 year old host told us about the history of the albergue – how it used to be a school until another one opened up a few kms away in another Pueblo. We were 4 pilgrims on total, Amadeo, a retired man from Valencia and two friends from Málaga. We all sat outside on the picnic table and chatted casually about the history of the place, the weather, the birds and a variety of random topics. Our host came up at 8pm to turn on the heat and wish us “buen camino”.

Etapa 3: Naturaleza de Asturias

35.19 km

There was lots of mountain walking today. I crossed into the region of Asturias, leaving León behind. The mountains are very dramatic; green, steep and beautiful.

The first half was open meadows and exposed mountains; the second half was through a tunnel forest which felt like it should have elves and fairies living in it.

My feet were sore and blisters on the verge of forming – yet after walking for a few hours, the pain fades away. With each day, the body does what it can to adjust and slowly starts to become used to 6-8 hours of walking. We are animals that are meant to roam.

It’s springtime; there is new life everywhere. Flowers. Cows. Horses. Sheep. Piglets. Two little calves were curious and particularly interested in licking my salty hand. Such sweet animals.

It was a challenging but stunningly beautiful day. The Gronze Camino guide describes in perfectly:

Es la Etapa Reina del Camino del Salvador y una de las más bellas y orográficamente más complejas de todas las rutas jacobeas: hoy cruzamos el eje axial de la Cordillera Cantábrica.

I walked in awe at the natural beauty around me. Mountains seemed so impossibly steep and green. Thick forests for as far as the eye could see. Endless rivers, creeks, waterfalls and mossy tunnels.

The last 5km were challenging, but music helped power me through.

The day ended in a rustic donativo albergue loaded with all the necessary provisions; beer, wine, Aquarius, psychedelic art on the walls, fabada asturiana vegana. The hospitalera, Ana, was nice enough to make a special vegan dish for me. The four of us dined in the cozy comedor and waxed poetic about caminos, life and philosophy. It is small dinners like that which make the Camino special – it’s a way for people that normally wouldn’t come into contact to exchange ideas, share moments and learn from each other. I was pleasantly surprised to hear about how open to veganism my fellow pilgrims were; I had incorrectly assumed they would be highly traditional meat eaters – but all of them expressed interest in moving towards a more “flexitarian” diet and understood the motivations behind veganism.

Etapa 4: Back to Civilization

32.57 km

It was a lovely evening in the albergue at the top of a hill in a tiny pueblo of asturias. The Hospitalera was a quirky and kind character, going out of her way to make a special vegan fabada for me. The four of us enjoyed a heart cena comunitaria, discussing past caminos and sharing stories.

Another night of deep sleep. Turns out walking 30km a day is a great way to regulate one’s sleep!

The Camino started off steep and downhill as it cut through the thick forest back to the river valley, passing through several large pueblos. It was rainy and mostly asphalt – not the most desirable conditions – but that’s part of the fun – there’s always variety in the Camino.

I put my headphones on and blasted my favorite swing and techno to power me through most of the day.

Ideas materialized as I walked: The Camino is like going to work. You do your job: walking. Randomly throughout the day you say hi to your co-workers (fellow pilgrims that you pass on the way). Sometimes you chat with them. At the end of the day, you go out for drinks or food (communal dinner at the albergue) and share stories about your workday (your day walking). You are all working towards a common goal and develop friendship in the process. But it is a more casual and natural form of friendship. And it is the best job in the world. If only walking Caminos existed as a job!

Asturian Pueblos feel like they are tucked in the mountains, overgrown with lush, green vegetation. Surrounded us at all times are towering, steep mountains. It’s a special and magical place.

Unfortunately, we were always near a highway – which took away some of the charm. But hey, people need to go places fast, right?

I arrived at the final Pueblo, ravenous with hunger. I found a Google review that mentioned a vegan burrito at a local gastropub but when I arrived, they informed me that they just ran out of ingredientes. ¡Vaya!

I went with plan B, the reliable bread + salt/pepper + spices + avocados (3 small ones) + nuts. I ordered a caña (small beer) at a terraza and stealth prepared my scrappy lunch. It was delicious and calorically dense – just what I needed.

In the last 1km of the walk, the four of us coincidently reunited and arrived together at La Casa De Alba, a lovely woman (Alba) greeted us with kisses and made us feel right at home. She is a pilgrim herself and she runs a donativo; the ancient form of hosting pilgrims where there is no set price – you pay what you can. It embodies the communal Camino spirit of hosting pilgrims through traditional hospitality.

It was a lovely stay at La Casa de Alba – it felt like being at your aunt’s cozy country house. Every pilgrim we ever saw (all 6 of us) in the last 4 days ended up at her house. Alba gave us a humble yet delicious meal of lentejas, salad and bread. We drank wine and had a lovely sobremesa (extended period of talking after eating), savoring our final night. It was my fourth straight day only speaking Spanish – a nice campamento de immersion to dust off the rust off el castellano. The Spanish have a vibrant way of socializing – basically, everyone talks at once and the loudest / most persistent voice will win out and everyone listens until the next chance to chime in. I did a lot of listening and added my thoughts when possible. (This is an exaggeration and generalization, but you get the idea). It was a wonderful cap to a very special, peaceful and idyllic Camino.

Etapa 5: La Salvadorana

16.05 km

It was the final day of El Camino San Salvador. The first chapter comes to an end, but it was only the warm up.

The next morning we said our goodbyes knowing full well that we’d see each other at some point before arriving in Oviedo. “Ya nos encontraremos”.

It would be an “easy day” of only 15km. The Camino meandered through paved rural roads, submerged in the vibrant green of asturias. It was rainy and cloudy but my energy was high, knowing I would finish this camino and start another. On top of that, I was excited to catch up with an old friend for lunch who lives in a small village near Oviedo.

I went into “machine-mode” – blasting “The War on Drugs” and “The Rolling Stones” to energize my stride and carry my body to el Catedral de San Salvador.

After a few hours of aggressive walking, I caught site of Oviedo from a distance. There was a hint of nostalgia and joy as I remembered entering Santiago on previous Caminos. This time it wasn’t as powerful because I know the journey is only beginning.

I entered the outskirts of the city and reminisced about the last time I was in Oviedo. It was almost 6 years ago. I had just worked as an English teacher / camp counselor at a kids camp in a rural village of Asturias. I was paid a weekly salary but we had to work essentially 24 hours / day, living in tight quarters with the other counselors and eating with the children every meal. The food was scant, there was no organization, the time for breaks was non-existent but the kids were lovely, the setting incredible and we did all sorts of fun activities: river rafting, canyoning, beach visits, and lots of volleyball. It was an intense experience! Lots of highs and lows. After the camp, I went to Oviedo and relaxed for a few days. I remember the feeling of boredom and restlessness being in Oviedo. If I had only known of The Camino back then… how times have changed.

I arrived at El Catedral to get the “Salvadorana” which is like the Compostela – a certificate showing the completion of El Camino San Salvador. For me, it was a warmup Camino. A chance to have time to be alone, walk with my thoughts, disconnect from the day to day, adjust to the rhythm of eat/sleep/walk/repeat and have a nice splash of Camino family for the communal dinners every night in the albergues. Mission completed.

I met up with my fellow pilgrim crew and we said our congratulations to each other, Hugh-fived, hugged and took the necessary selfies.

After a quick shower and change, I met up with my good friend Leyre to catch up after not seeing each other for months. Seeing a familiar face and spending time with a cherished friend was a fantastic way to close out the first season of this Camino adventure.

I thought to myself: “Tomorrow, day 1 of El Primitivo begins. ¡Ultreia!”

Etapa 6: El Camino Primitivo Begins

33.83 km

It was an action-packed afternoon and evening in Oviedo. I briefly thought about taking a break to do some sightseeing, but one does not simply leave the Camino. Going “off-Camino” for a day can be extremely disruptive to the pilgrim flow that I had worked so hard to aquire.

I checked in to the local albergue and met several pilgrims who would also begin the Primitivo the next day. It was like the first day of class – who will be more new friends for the next two weeks?! Everyone was excited to begin the adventure.

Unfortunately, I had a terrible night of sleep. Not sure if it was the bigger crowd, the café descafeinado that was possible regular or the excitement of starting a Camino many years in the making.

I was up at 6am and had an extra coffee to get going. Big bowl of oatmeal, banana and peanut butter. Out the door at 7:45. It was me, a few pilgrims and several drunk party goers – still out from the night before. I was so happy I wasn’t one of them!

The day was a nice mix of rural backroads, cute pueblos, enchanted forests and roaring rivers. The land is bathed in green- it feels like the Pacific Northwest.

I met friendly pilgrims from Vancouver, Hungary, Montreal, Lithuania, Ireland, Russia, Spain and Germany. There were more people than San Salvador but it didn’t feel crowded at all.

I walked past a middle aged woman with a large backpack. Her head was down and she looked very focused. I somehow had the feeling that she was an experienced walker. She seemed to be in the zone, so I just wished her a ‘buen Camino’ and moved on. I didn’t know it at the time, but by the end, she would be part of the Camino family. She started near her home in France and had been walking for nearly 2 months. For her, the trip was 20 years in the making – now that she was retired, she could finally do it!

After re-supplying in Grado, the largest village of the day, I pushed onward to a mountain-top albergue overlooking a field of goats, surrounded by gardens. It was recommended by San Salvador friends as a special place and it did not disappoint. It oozes Camino charm; basic facilities yet rustic and cozy with a communal kitchen, picnic tables and a fridge stocked with the beer and wine.

There were only 3 of us: Katie from Ireland and a quiet German. Domingo, the Hospitalero, was like a friendly, quirky uncle to us – giving us tips and even calling the next albergue to make sure there was room for us the following night. He was a character: he spent nearly 20 minutes pointing out places he had been to on the map and telling us stories of his travels. He rightfully pointed out how large Russia is compared to other countries – that he met pilgrims from cities in Russia – with 1-2 million inhabitants – yet were completely unknown to most westerners.

He “booked” us in the next albergue using the unique system of taking our photo and messaging it to David, the hospitalero at an albergue 30km away.

Etapa 7: Deep Camino

31.59 k

Slow, relaxing morning. Up at 6AM and out the door by 8. Foggy and misty.

I walked with various groups – friendly ladies from Poland who enjoy doing adventure vacations together, an American/Dutch retire doctor who has done multiple Caminos and loves it, his friend – an American professor trying out his first Camino – and many more. It’s fun to meet random people – the conversations generally flow naturally and if they don’t – we’ll, just walk faster and you’re alone again!

Long lunch stop, enjoying saying hi to the rapidly increasing groups of fast friends I’ve made in the last 48 hours.

The scenery continues to be lovely. Green, green, green. Waterfalls, creeks, rivers.

Charming villages, locals working their gardens and tending to the animals. It’s like traveling back in time.

After a scrappy lunch of bread, avocado, peanut butter and fruit in the town square, I put on music and charged uphill for the 8 km to arrive at my home for the night – a cozy albergue run by a true Hospitalero and lover of the Camino, David.

The Albergue de Bodenaya was originally created by a Pilgrim that loved the Camino so much, he bought a run-down house in Asturias, spent a year reforming it and opened a donativo Albergue. Eventually, it was passed on to David, another mega-fan of the Camino and he and his partner have been running it for the last 9 years or so.

Bodenaya was recommended by several pilgrims as a special place and it did not disappoint. I was one of the last to arrive and as I took off my shoes and stretched outside, I could hear laughter and happy voices emanating from the inside. I poked my head in and David greeted me with a big smile and hug. It felt like a cozy clubhouse – with several pilgrims of all ages and backgrounds sitting at a table, having a drink and hanging out. I immediately felt like I was at home. Drinks and snacks were available in the fridge and it had a indescribable homey feel. It was like living in a fort-treehouse-log-cabin!

I met an American couple, German family, solo traveler from Belgium and many more. Everyone was in great spirits, friendly and welcoming. Before eating, we each shared one word about what The Camino means to us: “Growth. Peace. Freedom. Goodwill. Fantastic. Emotions. Delicious. Mystic.” I agree with all those words!

I chatted with David about my experience working for two weeks as a hospitalero voluntario in Bercianos and he was excited to meet another hospitalero. We both agreed that it is emotionally draining – to meet a group of wonderful people, bond with them for 8 hours and then say goodbye in the morning – and then repeat it again. My experience was 2 weeks – David has been doing it for years! He’s turned it into a lifestyle and its very impressive. I’m not sure how he is able to maintain the level of hospitality, attention and commitment to hosting pilgrims. There are plenty of days off (one per week in the high season and several months during the winters) – but it still must be taxing. He’s someone who is truly pursuing his passions for El Camino de Santiago and he was an inspiration to meet.

I’m lucky to find him when I did – I found out that he’s selling the Albergue to a couple that will continue the legacy of hosting pilgrims – in the same Donativo and pure spirit of the Camino. David and his partner will travel on various Caminos for the a year, looking for their next project – quite possibly another albergue to open. “We are nomads, it’s in our nature”. Kudos to you, David, for truly living your passion! I’ll be excited to see how their adventure unfolds!

Etapa 8: Slow Camino

15.74 km

I left Bodenaya feeling refreshed, inspired and full of Camino spirit. However, I was pretty damn exhausted. I had walked multiple 30+km days and spent quite a bit of time socializing. My body was asking for a slower day. I also realized I was trending a bit faster than planned. I didn’t want to rush this and finish early – so I listened to my body and walked a bit slower.

I soaked in the beauty and tranquility of Asturias, taking my time to breath the scents and absorb the foggy views. Nice chats with a random collection of pilgrims and plenty of time to walk alone and be “one” with nature.

The general theme of this Camino has been freedom and flow. I loved the feeling of being able to listen to my body, stop when I want to, walk faster when the urge hits me. If I happen to enter a lively conversation; well, let it flow, chat it out, go with the moment – without having a rush or a preconceived idea of how the day is “supposed” to go. Stop trying to control the situation and always try to maximize every moment. Just let the moment be.

I arrived in Tineo – the end of the stage for day 2. Wandering around the town felt like traveling back in time. It’s the biggest town in a very rural, dairy-farming region of Asturias. It was fascinating to see that this small town had 2 watch stores, a gardening store, a shoe store that also sold beans, as well as a movie theatre that may or may not have been closed for 20 years. There were many empty and dilapidated store fronts but also at least a dozen bars with plenty of patrons. It felt empty and lively at the same time. There was even a “Moe’s Tavern” – not sure if it existed before or after The Simpsons.

Etapa 9: Muy Verde

24.12 km

It was the best night of sleep I’ve had on the entire trip. My body and mind were tired after 8 straight days of walking. The sleep rejuvenated me.

Slow, relaxing morning. The Camino started uphill and I ran into several familiar faces. Caught up with some friends who had thought they would never see me again due to my intense camino walking style. It’s like an accordion – groups and waves of people leapfrogging each other depending on their rhythms.

The social aspect of the Camino is interesting. There’s always new people to meet and most are open to conversation. It’s fun and engaging but it also can be a bit exhausting. The beauty of the camino is that you can just walk faster or simply stop if you want to be alone.

I met interesting folks from all over the world: a nurse from Vancouver, a Mexican-American living in Texas, a retired dutch couple (the man had the same backpack as me and the woman was a fellow vegan) and an American who had been living in the Netherlands for the last 10 years. It’s interesting how quickly people open up on the Camino. Within 5 minutes of meeting someone, it isn’t uncommon to share very personal things, such as the motivation for doing a Camino due to personal challenges. It’s normal to go deep quickly on Camino.

The path led us through stunning hills, green farms, lush forests. The day was misty yet clear at times, creating a serene calming effect.

I chatted for the first half and the second half was more alone time.

I reached the intersection between 2 routes – the Hospitales route over a giant mountain with no services for a day or the Pola route which goes around the mountain and through towns. I had already planned to do hospitales but I didn’t realize that my albergue was along the other route – so I went halfway up the mountain before realizing I would have to backtrack. Oh well, the views were fantastic and the burned forest in the clouds was quite an experience.

Etapa 10: Hospitales

23.06 km

The previous night was spent at a private, but rather soul-less albergue – it felt more like a regular hostel and less like a homey albergue. People were mostly keeping to themselves and it was a bit quiet. Well, anything after Bodenaya is doomed to be a disappointment. I still had a nice time, eating an impromptu dinner with a retiree from Toledo and meeting an Italian Camino enthusiast who walks for 2 months every year, creating a patchwork of caminos, designing his own trip depending on his whims in the moment. Paulo has an impressive episodic memory, vividly recounting the details of every Camino he’s done over the years.

It was a steep ascent to begin the Hospitales climb. It would be 22km with no services but I was well prepared with plenty of dates, nuts, water and dehydrated potatoes.

After an aggressive pace to get warm, the mist and wind descended on me. It was like being in and out of a cloud. Is this what a bird feels like?

The wind kicked into high gear and nearly knocked me over. It was a constant blast to the side which made for some drunken walking. I pushed on, taking short breaks to stretch and refuel.

Finally, crested the mountain and descended rapidly down a rocky trail. On the other side of the mountain it was blue skies and no wind. There were pilgrims around but everyone seemed to be hiking their own Camino today, battling the wind and whatever demons they have floated around their minds.

The last quarter of the hike was sunny, pleasant, forested and relaxing.

I arrived at the “end of stage” town and had originally planned to go onward and stay at a private albergue. I walked by the municipal albergue and it looked very enticing. A large lawn, picnic tables and communal kitchen. I decided to change the plan and stay in the municipal – knowing it is always a good place to make pilgrim friends. It did not disappoint.

I met pilgrims from Spain, Italy, Poland, Russia, Canada and Czech Republic. I went to the village store and got ingredients for a scrappy concoction of Camino slop – soupy rice filled with veggies, garbanzos and Camino love. As I cooked it, I enthusiastically told people around me that there would be plenty to share. However, it was at an awkward time between lunch and dinner, so most people politely refused. By the end of the cooking frenzy, I had a giant pot of rice and was increasingly desperate to share the food. It’s something I enjoy doing – cooking and sharing – enjoying a meal together with a fellow pilgrim. I started to eat, resigned to carry the leftovers with me tomorrow, when I finally found a few hungry pilgrims to enjoy it with me. One of the ladies from the Polish crew tried it and in basic English told me it was “Super!”. She and her crew were shocked to learn that it was vegan. Veronika, from Czech republic, also tried a bowl and had seconds after my strong encouraging. She offered to split the cost for the ingredients but I immediately refused, this is the pilgrim way – share food with everyone and pay it forward!

The evening was lively as well. I had planned to sleep at 9:00 but I couldn’t say no to an invitation to have some sips of cider with a crew of Italians, Spanish and a Russian/Canadian. We all practiced our best cider pour – which requires the liquid to be poured from the largest height possible to ensure maximum bubble production. It was a fun evening that got a little rowdy for Albergue standards – but we were still all in bed (and many people snoring) by 10:15.

Etapa 11: Camino Flow

22.56 km

I woke up feeling re-energized on The Camino and vowed to only stay in municipal/donativo albergues from this point onward – that’s where the pilgrim magic happens!

The next day was spectacular. Stunning light against patchwork of green laden hills. We climbed up and over a small mountain only to dramatically descend into a beautiful river valley that had been converted into a reservoir by a hydroelectric dam. Colorful wildflowers in bloom. Blue skies with sun and some random clouds. Flowing conversations with a variety of pilgrims.

I met a mother/daughter from Canada that had been walking El Camino del Norte since France. The daughter traveled impressively light – the smallest backpack I’ve seen! I was able to keep up with them for a few kilometers but their pace was far to quick for mine.

I stopped at a scenic viewpoint and met a pair of pilgrims from the South of Spain. They sat on their backs, heads resting on their backpacks and calmly took in the view. A offered me sprouts that she had germinated while walking the Camino – so cool! It was nice to get some greens after so many days of carbs.

Down and around the reservoir and then up through the pine forest to reach the quaint town of Grandes de Salime.

Body felt great – much more adapted to walking than the first week.

Eleven days in – any epiphanies so far? Well, the moment is precious. Things arise and things fade away. Nothing is permanent. Just let it flow. Insights I already Knew but it’s always to get reminders by living a special experience.

Etapa 12: El Tardeo

26.94 km

Excellent weather today. Rainbow to start off the morning. Gradual uphill but never too steep. Pastoral landscapes. Farm animals. Only a few small cafes along the way.

Patrick’s journal.

We crossed the border into Galicia – leaving the Asturias chapter behind and signaling the beginning of the end of The Camino in Santiago.

After checking in to the albergue, I wandered around the small Pueblo to feed myself. Unfortunately, everything was closed – it was siesta time. On the way back from my failed food mission, I ran into two fellow pilgrims, Stefano and Lucca, at a bar “de todo la vida” (a whole-in-the-wall bar that’s been around forever and filled with locals). It was in a perfect location; in the town square and directly on The Camino. They demanded I join them for a drink in the sun and I couldn’t resist.

We cracked open 3 “quintos” – small 200ml beer bottles. In a mix of English, Italian and Spanish we reminisced on the day’s adventures and the magic of The Camino. Each pilgrim that passed, Stefano would hollar at them in his endearing way and aggressively suggest that they join us. Resistance was futile. Over the next several hours, the crew kept growing and the beers were flowing. It was a collection of Camino characters, some that had only made brief appearances in my Camino story, some new ones but by the end of it, we cemented our status as Camino friends.

“Grandísimo! This is Camino!” Stefano said as he admired the smiling faces around him. He was the conductor, shuffling pilgrims in, engaging them in conversation and making everyone laugh with his over the top enthusiasm. It was a lovely and slightly rowdy pilgrim afternoon street party. People from all different walks of life, ages and nationalities – enjoying some beers in the sun on a street in rural Spain.

This is Camino.

Etapa 13: Sun and Rain

26.88 km

It would be one of the final days of green countryside before entering the more populated towns near Santiago.

Lively café stop at the 12 km marker (first one of the day). Lots of familiar and happy faces recharging the batteries with café con leche, fresh squeezed orange juice and tostada de tomate.

The last 2 hours were quite sunny and hot. I powered through to arrive at the municipal albergue just before a massive rainstorm hit.

Journal excerpt from this day of walkng:

Random thoughts for the day: The Camino is kind of like college. You start off not knowing anybody, you live in tight quarters, there is fast bonding, there is plenty of time to just “hang out”. It’s much different from college due to the fact that there is such a diverse range of ages, backgrounds and ethnicities on The Camino. The concept of “hanging out” and community is what stands out as one of the most key elements of why The Camino is special. In normal life, everything is planned, structured, programmed. There isn’t as much time to just be with other people.

On Camino, you are around people – many you get along with, some you are indifferent to, some you are occasionally annoyed with, some you absolutely cannot stand. But that forced social interaction also brings serendipitous conversations and a feeling of community that is hard to recreate in the default world. It’s something that is often missing from people’s lives – which are mostly lived in boxes; computer screens, cars, shopping malls, single family homes. With technology, our lives have improved in many ways, but the advances have left us feeling lonely and isolated. Walking with a group of humans is a pure and primal way to reconnect with our instinctive and social roots.

Patrick’s Journal

Etapa 14: Two Weeks on the Camino, 100 km to go

32.44 km

This day marked 2 weeks on Camino. It already felt like many months. So much has happened in that time. Constant novelty; new people, landscapes, towns. Yet, the camino has a rhythm – walk, eat, chat, albergue, shower, nap, eat, sleep. Repeat.

Today was my first pre-dawn departure. Normally, I wake up naturally at 6:30 and take my sweet time to get ready, have a proper oatmeal-peanut-butter brick of dense calories and enjoy my instant coffee while catching up on journaling. Today, I purposely woke up earlier – some fellow pilgrims and I made a loose plan to mix it up and experience sunrise Camino action.

We were out the door at 6AM and walked through a misty, spooky forest. Pairs of Laser beam lights reflected back at us from the glare of my headlamp. The eyes of cows and cats.

V, L and I walked together until the sun came up, then we naturally spaced out by falling into our personal walking rhythms. 

After the first (and only) café stop, I found myself strangely alone. No one in sight. Was I on the correct Camino? Am I the first or last pilgrim? Depending on pilgrim migratory patterns, the Camino can be filled with life or devoid of humans.

The light leaked through the green tunnel of trees. To try my left, a window opened up to a grassy field – the morning fog being burned off in a haze. It was a dreamy walk. Photos don’t do it justice.

The day was delightful; I alternated between alone time, engaging conversations and music-powered walking through lush trails and rural countryside. Trying to soak in the nature vibes as much as possible before the arrival to Lugo, the provincial capital and signifier of the end of the wild Asturian/Galician nature.

Enjoyable afternoon chats with Spanish nurses, a French retiree and American college students. Arrived in the municipal albergue to plenty of familiar faces. Camino family is forming. Topped off the day with a hearty vegan menu del dia.

I sometimes swing between being a lone wolf and desperately wanting to make friends on the Camino. It is a practice in listening to your body and what it craves in any given moment. Sometimes, it wants to just walk, sometimes it also wants to talk and connect. Sometimes, the choice is already made for you.

The afternoon was relaxing, as I strolled around town I kept running into fellow pilgrims that I had met over the last two weeks. It felt like a small town where you know everyone – even though it was a city and I would be completely anonymous if it was a day earlier or later. The intersection of space and time is extra salient on The Camino.

Etapa 15: Para ser fuerte y hermosa come pan de casa raposo

31.25 km

It was a terrible night of sleep and woke up at 4:45 knowing that I wouldn’t be able to return to slumber. I was one of the first to leave and it was still dark. The city was silent and shrouded in fog. I took my time, wanting to soak in the ambiance and not rush through the day.

I left the city and crossed the bridge on the way out of town. I realized that I would have to take a detour to find an open cafeteria – but it was worth it for the extra kick of energy. The neighborhood was working class and full of character. I chatted with the owner about the upcoming elections in Spain and how all the politicians are untrustworthy. It’s the same everywhere! 

I snaked my way through backroads to rejoin with The Camino. The mist was strong and visibility low. No sunrise. It felt spooky and mysterious. I walked slowly and observed my surroundings. I knew that most of my pilgrim friends were behind me and I didn’t feel like walking alone – so I walked slow. It went against my normal walking nature but it was an exercise in meditation and awareness.

After 10km of farmland and misty fields, I arrived at a pilgrim outpost with a vending machine, tables and toilet. The first adequate rest stop! I relaxed there for over an hour to have breakfast and catch wave after wave of familiar faces that continuously arrived. Each day on Camino is like months of friendship – people seem to know each other better, trust increases and everyone intermingles; regardless of age or ability to understand each other’s language. We are united as pilgrims!

I joined a group and we walked through fields of rural trails and backroads. The scenery continues to be gorgeous even though it is less mountainous.

I took another long afternoon break and enjoyed some laughs and revelry with fellow pilgrims. The last 90 minutes were a bit of a slog due to the afternoon heat (and afternoon beers).

I splurged for a private room and it felt like absolute luxury. I was king for a night.

The albergue was private and well-organized. Our pilgrim group ended up having an impromptu karaoke session using a mini-speaker and mobile youtube. We were causing a ruckus of excitement and laughs – luckily every pilgrim in the albergue had joined the fun, so we weren’t disturbing anyone. Of course, I impressed everyone with my rendition of “Ice Ice Baby” – my personal karaoke one hit wonder.

Etapa 16: El Fin del Primitivo

29.75 km

After 15 days of sleeping in a room with other humans, it was time to get a private room. I felt like a king and had a wonderful sleep.

Hearty breakfast and out the door at 8AM. Misty and cool. Devoid of pilgrims. I knew it would be the last day on the Primitivo before being swallowed by the mass of pilgrims on the Frances.

I walked through rural farms and houses. The smell of cow and animal agriculture was ever present.

I savored the last moments of tranquility, enjoying the solo walk before entering into the Disneyland of the Camino that occurs within 100km of Santiago on the frances.

Ran into some pilgrim friends along the way and we loaded up on groceries at the last town before our rural albergue. We had a pilgrim picnic and watched the mass of fresh pilgrims with small backpacks who looked excited to walk 100km to Santiago and get their Compostela.

Etapa 17: Disneyland Camino

29.87 km

Completely different vibe on the camino today. It has been converted into a tourist factory: groups of families and friends packed the trail. It felt like the morning commute, people walking in a hurry and not talking to each other – but a bit more festive, especially earlier in the day before the heat hit.

The first hour was peaceful and surprisingly empty. Beautiful backroads through farmlands, the pungent stench of animal agricultural permeating the morning air.

The crowds slowly increased, reaching a crescendo in the first major town of Arzua. It was packed. I had to zig zag and tailgate to get people to move out of the way. There were long lines for coffee and bathroom breaks. I felt like an anonymous citizen in a massive city – who are these people!? Not a familiar face in sight.

Luckily, I was able to meet up with some pilgrim friends along the way and we took plenty of breaks to recharge the batteries, marvel at the spectacle and escape the afternoon heat.

Only 20km until Santiago!

Etapa 18: The Last Dance

20.59 km

As we counted down the days to the arrival in Santiago, our Camino family felt more united. There was a stronger sense of community, sharing and hanging out in the Albergues. The fact that it would be over soon – combined with the reality of converging caminos – made us want to savor our final moments together.

Today was special. It seemed like another routine morning but there was a buzz in the air. Last night, a group of us dined together – knowing it would be the final dinner on the road. We savored the moments together and shared in the excitement of Santiago-Eve. For many of us, the journey ends in Santiago.

Patrick’s Journal.

The walk was scenic and surprisingly empty of tourist pilgrims. Maybe they were tired from all the heat the day before? Perhaps they didn’t start until 9AM when their hotel breakfast buffet ended? Maybe a wheel broke off their suitcase? (Kidding! Ok, I’ll get off my high horse now). Maybe it was just a Camino miracle.

We made more of an effort to walk in a group and share the excitement, joy and emotion of arriving together.

The cathedral was spotted from afar and we knew there were only a few more kms to go. I recognized random spots along the way from my Del Norte Camino 4 years ago.

I was overcome with gratitude for being healthy and having the ability to walk for nearly 3 weeks – above all for meeting wonderful Camino friends and being able to share the moments with them. The emotion reached its height as I entered the final tunnel to the cathedral and heard the emotive tones of the Galician gaita (bagpipe), setting the perfect soundtrack for the symbolic finale of the journey.

The arrival is different every time. I felt very content and grateful to experience it a third time. We quickly found our Primitivo tribe and congratulated each other with embraces, laughs and tears of joy.

We went to the Pilgrim mass, stared in awe at the massive botafumeiro swinging at high speeds, spewing incense into the air and then had a celebratory dinner at ‘Asian Street Food’ – the logical place to go after spending 2+ weeks eating Camino Spanish food. The beers flowed as we dined and laughed – everyone in a celebratory spirit knowing that this would be the last dance of our Camino together.

Epilogue

The arrival in Santiago was exactly one week ago. I’ve been working on this blog since then – trying to distill my thoughts, experiences, learnings and emotions into a neatly packaged unit of creative work. This is my way to ‘cement’ the fleeting memory – mostly for me to be able to look back on 5, 10, 15 years from now and smile fondly when I recall the experience. It’s a challenging task; mostly because it’s utterly impossible to capture the infinite complexity that comprises a series of moments over the course of 18 days. Each person that I met is an entire world, a fascinating story, and epic drama. To capture the ‘essence’ of a human or an experience is a fool’s errand. The pursuit of creativity is to break through that wall and try the best we can, fully knowing that are attempts are futile. A name, nationality, profession, age – it doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of who a person is. We’re all so different and unique; yet one thing unites us… we are the weirdos that decided to spend our hard-earned free time walking for 8 hours a day and sleeping in bunk-beds in a room full of snoring strangers.

Returning to the ‘default world’ after such a rich Camino experience is challenging. I’ve been struggling to find the motivation to carry out simple tasks. Everything seems overly complicated, daunting, disorganized. I seem to have too much stuff and it’s completely impossible to organize it. I experienced 18 days of only having a backpack’s worth of items to worry about. The transition is rough, but I will get there.

Has this Camino changed me? As one pilgrim said: “The Camino hasn’t changed me – but it’s made me know myself better.” I completely agree. If anything, it is a reminder for what’s important in life. It is a teacher of lessons that we already know, deep down inside.

Be with people. Go out in nature. Simplify life. Move your body. Put down the phone. Smile. Say hi. Say ‘Buen Camino’ y ‘Buena Vida’. Share food and drink with people around you. Give without expecting anything in return. Walk your own camino. Live your own life. There are no rules, there is no “right way to do it.” Respect our differences. Recognize that every person is fighting a battle that you know nothing about. Let it flow and don’t try to swim against the current.

Patrick’s Journal.

My ego feels satisfied that I have crossed off another item on my list. I’ve now done ‘X’ caminos and walked ‘Y’ kilometers. I’ve made my time on this earth “worthwhile” – at least for those 18 days. But, am I just collecting experiences? In the end, life is a series of moments. There is no goal or endgame, no winning or losing. There’s no there there. Life is a song and the best thing you can do is to dance to that song. For me, some of my best “dancing to life” happens when I’m on Camino. If that’s not a worthwhile endeavor, I don’t know what is.