Day 1
6/4/22

One week in Iceland with my best bud – how could I say no? Iceland’s reputation as an otherworldly nature-lovers paradise made it very appealing. But what if there are too many tourists? Will the selfie-sticks and lines to see the waterfall make it ‘not worth it’? It’s touristy for a reason, Patrick! Just remember, if you walk 20 minutes away from the tourist trail, you’ll have it all to yourself.

Murray flies direct from Portland, I fly through Germany. I was scheduled to arrive late Friday evening, but my flight gets delayed 9 hours in Germany! In the end, we both arrive Saturday morning and are very jet-lagged and exhausted. After coffee, oatmeal and sunshine we are back on track.

Catching up on the good ol’ days and exploring Reykjavík by foot. The ‘guyz trip’ has begun. This time, we are a nimble team – 2 members strong. The plan is to rent a van and hunt for the best glacier hikes. Murray sleeps in the van, Patrick in the tent. Fingers crossed for decent weather. For now, we’re happy to roam the city and embrace the tourist vortex.

Day 2
6/5/22

The first full day was attacked with great gusto. We rented bikes and did a 30 KM loop around the city, exploring the outskirts and city parks.

After a home-cooked meal in the economy studio (and a siesta) we braved the tourist vortex and ventured to the ‘Sky Lagoon’ (an alternative to the mythical ‘Blue Lagoon’). There’s something special about soaking in a warm body of water with other people.

This was the full-on tourist experience, complete with overpriced beers, international groups taking selfies and artificial lava rocks/moss. It was worth every penny! The weather was perfect, cloudy, drizzly and cold. The geothermal-heated pools were a lovely respite from the dreary day. The view was incredible; the pool blended seamlessly with the ocean bay. The lava rocks (even though they were fake) felt real and natural. I am learning to embrace the tourist vortex in small doses.

Day 3.1
6/6/22

Early morning wakeup for the ritual oats, peanut butter and banana slurry with some diesel/decaf coffee. It’s van departure day!

The van arrives at 8AM and we load ‘er up. It’s a minimal rig; a 2-meter bed in the back with storage underneath. Table, chairs, pots, pans and stove. Murray will sleep in the van and Patrick in a tent. It’s all we need for 5 days of exploring the best hiking trails on the glacial southern coast.

Rig is filled with gear and we’re off. Weather is looking rough. The forecast shows 4 out of the next 5 days with rain – and today is the clear day. We call an audible and adjust the ‘official VanBros itin’ that was previously planned. It’s time to make a beeline to Vatnajökull National Park and take advantage of a non-rainy day while we can. We are laser focused on completing an epic 20 KM loop hike, complete with glacial views and waterfalls.

We stop at ‘Bonus’ – the infamous budget grocery store. It has everything we need for our van-campin’-plant-based eatin’ needs! I’m reminded why I’m extremely fortunate to live in Spain – it seems like most of the products we buy (especially the produce) are shipped from Spain, wrapped in plastic and 5x the price I’m used to. Murray is on board with my vegan indoctrination camp and we do a superb job of picking the right amount of food for 5 days on the road (we only made that one stop and had very little left over at the end of the week).

Two hours in, we get pulled into the vortex again. A massive waterfall beckons us. Legions of tour buses and families flock like zombies to the siren call of the booming cataract. Phone held above, they march onward, looking for that perfect shot to prove that they were there, they experienced it at that point in time. We decide to get off our high horses and do the same damn thing – and it’s fun! Everyone is happy, the sun is shining and the nature is incredible. People are on vacation and living their best lives. We meet a family from India that had the biggest smiles – we took their picture and they told us it was the first moment of sun after a week in Iceland. The sun sure does have the power to shape our moods.

Day 3.2

Nearly 5 hours on the road melt away as we cruise through the martian landscape: Lava fields, mountains, sea, moss covered black rocks. We resist the strong gravitational force of additional tourist vortices and arrive at the mini-vortex of Skaftafell. It’s a campsite and national park. The bathroom/shower/dishwashing facilities are basic yet clean and modern. Yes, there are tourists, but they are concentrated ad the visitor center. We find a nice plot of land on the campgrounds and promptly gear-up for the hike. It’s 4:30pm but we have all the time in the world – it never gets dark here. Yes, the sun technically ‘sets’ at 11:30pm but it still feels like the middle of the day.

We set off on the hike and after about 20 minutes of walking, we are completely alone. The only sounds are of birds and trickling water. The landscape is immense, desolate and vast. In one direction it looks like a burnt-out flatland with no life. Turn your head 20 degrees and it’s a moss covered, lush canyon with psychedelically shaped rocks. In a slightly different direction is what appears to be a massive glacier or snow-capped mountain in the distance. The nature is epic and indescribable.

We’ve gone 3 hours without seeing another human. How were these geological formations created? Is there a volcano here? Where is the magma? What am I doing with my life? We walk alone and apart – contemplating our place in this world.

Day 3.3

We reach the snow. We see the glacier. The vastness of the valley is awe-inspiring. We fumble with our phones and cameras, ultimately trying to do the impossible – capture the essence of what we’re experiencing. The weather holds – no rain! We decide to play it safe and not summit the nearby peak – it’s mostly scree and the trail is unmarked.

Day 3.4

After nearly 17km, we complete the loop. Our bodies are sore but our hearts are full. It’s only been 3 days but it feels like a lifetime. We are in the flow of travel, of catching up, of nature, of adventure. What is my previous life? Where do I live? Was there really existence before Iceland?

There is lots of hunger. It’s nearly 10pm but it feels like 6PM. Team VanBros swings into action, Murray acting as sous chef and expert-level dishwasher. Patrick is the mad scientist cook, creating a massive pot of energy dense rice slop. Sun dried tomatoes, mushrooms, exotic spices, beans, chopped veggies, toasted nuts, splashes of olive oil. ‘Screw it, I’m throwing in the entire bag of rice’. There is more food than even two large hungry men can eat. We save the rest for burrito snacks the next day.

Day 4.0
6/7/22

We sleep deeply. Patrick in the tent and Murray in the van. It’s colder than expected; luckily the van rental provided an extra sleeping bag which was helpful for the tent.

Morning ritual of coffee and oatmeal. We observe the impressive collection of other cars at the campsite; many simplistic set-ups but plenty of monstrous 4×4 vehicles that look like tanks. Some people are prepared for some serious exploring.

We set off on an easier walk – this time a pleasant path to the glacier, a mere 2km from our campsite. We bring the camera gear and hike as far as we can go. Time-lapse is set up and we relax by the streaming river and glacial sun.

Day 4.1

The camera is set up and takes a photo every 10 seconds to capture the moving clouds. We relax on the hardened molten rocks and observe the clouds move across the ancient landscape, alternating between sun and shade as it moves through the sun rays. The river flows – it looks very cold. We don’t dare go close to it as several people have warned us that hypothermia can set in within minutes. Nature is a force to be reckoned with.

Fellow tourists occasionally pass by – we chat about our travels, exchange tips and well wishes. Everyone is stoked to be there. We’re on vacation. The day is beautiful. We’re next to a glacier. Life is grand.

We meet some adventurous backpackers from The Czech Republic that are hitchhiking around the island. They give us a hot tip on a secluded campsite near a smaller glacier, only a few hours from our current spot. We’re sold on it – this has to be our next destination! The only catch is that it’s a 45 minute drive on a gravel road off the main highway. Can the micro-van make it??

Day 4.2

We’ve been “going hard”. Non-stop action since arriving on the island. The afternoon is time for some rest. I drink a Viking 2.25% alcohol beer, write in the journal and attempt to take a siesta. It’s too damn sunny and the tent turns into an oven!

Murray has gone on a solo adventure through the flatlands, attempting to explore the ‘m1’ section of the map. I decide to hit up the famous waterfall that is about an hour hike into the park. I bring my gear and head out. By then, it’s about 7PM – but time doesn’t matter because it never gets dark!

The ‘Svartifoss’ waterfall and rock formation is stunning. The basalt columns have a hexagonal shape are formed by slowly cooling lava flow. There are few tourists around and take advantage to experiment with long-exposure photography.

Day 5.0
6/8/22

After 2 nights in the same spot, we are itching for adventure. We’ve done some research on the “hot tip” campsite and according to the reviews, the gravel road is doable on a 2-wheel-drive vehicle. We glance in the direction of our destination and see ominous black clouds – but the weather forecast calls for mostly sun.

On the road again! We stop at a few booming waterfalls and rivers along the way. There is so much spontaneity and freedom in having a van; our ‘official itin spreadsheet’ has been thrown out the window as we customise our trip with on the ground knowledge, traveler tips and how we are feeling in that moment.

We load up on camping gas and coffee as we leave civilisation and head down the infamous gravel road, hoping for good weather and clear skies. We take it slow and enjoy the scenery. There are tight turns, steep cliffs and blind ascents. We never feel uncomfortable and the van handles like a champ. We arrive in a magical prairie surrounded by massive mountains. We instantly know it was a good decision to come.

Day 5.1

We arrive mid-day and try to decide what to do. Should we eat a big meal now and then go for a hike? Have a SNACK and save the big meal prize for after the hike? After an hour of deliberation and several peanut butter sandwiches later, the decision has been made.

We decide to do the ‘medium’ hike of 5-6 hours. We study the map, take a photo and plot our route. After 20 minutes of walking out of the valley we realize we have to ford a river! The hike is filled with problem-solving tasks – fording rivers, spotting sign posts, figuring out how to stay on the trail and not accidentally fall off a cliff.

The inclines are steep, the summit is reached and then back down into the valley. Further waterfalls, streams and glaciers await.

Day 5.2

Up, up up. Down, down, down. Massive waterfall. River. Open lava plane. Family of sheep. Very few humans. Our van looks like an ant from above.

Day 5.3

Sweeping views of the landscape. Bitterly cold winds. Satisfying climbs and descents.

Day 5.4

Previous life is forgotten. The only thing that exists are these giant mountains. It really puts things in perspective. How many millions of years of time and pressure did it take to give birth to these formations?

The ‘medium’ hike has turned into a 4+ hour adventure. Back at the campsite, food is prepared, pasta with chopped veggies, sun dried tomatoes, rehydrated mushrooms, capers, coconut milk and a side of Heinz baked beans. It’s freezing out – the mountains surrounding our site do nothing to dampen the whipping winds. We eat and retire to our respective sleeping cocoons, exhausted from 5 days of non-stop adventuring.

Day 6.0
6/9/22

The sun was strong, the sky clear and the wind whipping. The stove was impossible to light. We needed our oats and coffee to power the days adventure! Luckily, there was a cave (with picnic tables inside) for us to shelter from the wind and make one of our last breakfasts of the trip. Powered up, we ventured off for a new hike – high above the towering mountains that surrounded our campsite…

Day 6.1

We follow the yellow signposts which guide us on the route. High above our campsite, the vans look like toys. In the distance, we see massive clouds moving at a ferocious pace. Rumors are circulating through the campsite about a major storm hitting the Southeastern coast. We’re in the ‘middle south’ so hopefully that doesn’t affect us. Nevertheless, we’re still a bit anxious as the weather forecast can never be fully trusted.

We continue onward, crossing snow and ice. The wind continues to increase. At times, it feels as if we can lean forward and gravity has no power – the wind keeps us afloat! We approach a large peak and the trail curves around it. We take one look, test the wind and decide that it’s not worth it! We could be flung off the cliff like leaves ripping off a branch. We’re halfway through the loop – so it’s a perfect spot to turn around. We cower under a rock clearing to take a moment of respite from the wind and bask in our wise decision to not tempt mother nature.

Day 7
6/10/22

We successfully escape the storm and avoid being thrown off a cliff! The winds continue which makes staying at the same campsite impossible. The tent would be blown away!

We regretfully say goodbye to the magical campsite nestled in the mountains and move onto the next destination – the lava black sand beach! After 60 minutes of driving through intense winds and overcast skies, we arrive at the beach. The wind rips through our clothes and tosses lava gravel in our eyes. We stumble onto the beach and try not to get blown over. Not exactly a relaxing day at the beach. We’ve heard that the waves can be intense and deceptively strong – we stay at least 30 meters from the shore just as a precaution. A quick selfie is snapped and back in the car!

The rest of the day is uneventful – we make our way to a campsite near the capital which will be our final night camping. On the way, we stop at a local ‘Sundhöllin’ – the Icelandic word for swimming pool. There is a strong culture of Sundhöllin in Iceland; it’s not just a pool – it’s a gathering spot for members of the community to socialize, decompress, let off steam and relax. Also, it’s not just a regular swimming pool. There is usually a lap pool and several smaller pools that are geothermally heated to various temperatures. There’s also a sauna and ice bath! We found one in a random town that happened to be connected to a middle school. We felt a bit awkward as we entered – this was clearly not the touristy ‘sky lagoon’ that we experienced earlier in the trip. Everyone around us spoke Icelandic and we were clearly the bumbling foreigners. The reception lady was nice and explained to us the rules: take off your shoes before entering the locker room, store your things in the locker and then THOROUGHLY clean yourself with soap before entering the pool area. Apparently, the pools are only very lightly chlorinated, so sanitation is important.

We follow the rules and enter the grounds. As expected, there is a lap pool and a series of hot tubs. At the moment, the hot tubs are full and we don’t dare to go in! After doing a few laps, I see that there are only a few people in the tub. I get brave and decide to enter. I’m nervous about violating the unspoken rules or being an ignorant tourist – but it all goes smoothly. I enter the tub and no one gives me a second look. I relax in the tub and feel the tension release from my muscles. More people enter – they don’t seem to know each other. There is an older lady relaxing with her eyes closed, absorbing the sun. A teenage couple flirts with each other and alternates between the hot tub and the cold bath. Some french tourists smile and take in the scene, just as I am. It’s a fun cultural experience – different types of people gathering together to enjoy the simple pleasure of being submerged in warm water.

The final night camping! Pasta, veggies and coconut milk. It’s in the middle of a city but it feels like we’re still in nature.

It’s the final day and we decide to do one more touristy thing. There is a 1 hour hike along a geothermal river – at the end of the hike, there is a section of river that’s open for bathing! We do the hike and fully engage with the tourist experience. It’s not too crowded – the tour buses can’t reach it because it’s only a walking trail. We arrive at the river and the water is deliciously warm! The experience is invigorating and so relaxing. We lay in the water and feel the warm liquid rushing past us. A definite must on the tourist trail of Icleand.