Albergue Life | The Van Bun

Another year, another stint as a Hospitalero Voluntario. I put my name into the hat at the end of August to help out in the second half of September if any Hospitalero dropped out. As fate would have it, The Camino called me back to Bercianos for a sequel to last year. Same location, but completely different experience: new pilgrims and new co-hospitaleros.

After the intense experience last year, I knew that it would be an annual event for me. The actual experience is 15 days, but it feels like 15 months of life experiences. Every day, a new wave of pilgrims descend into the world of the Albergue, we accept them, nurture their wounds – both physical and mental – feed their bodies with simple yet hearty nourishment and feed their souls with connection and beautiful sunsets. In the process, the Hospitaleros feel immense rewards of satisfaction, gratitude and appreciation for being able to provide such a needed and profound experience to many pilgrims. The feeling of being useful, being needed and giving something that I would want to experience as a pilgrim – these are the things that bring me back every year. Each morning, pilgrims would hug me and genuinely thank me for the experience we provided. For many, Bercianos will be one of the highlights of their Camino. Those smiles, well wishes, words of thanks – it produces natural chemicals in the brain that feel amazing.

What follows is a daily log of photos, thoughts, stories and experiences. The anecdotes rely heavily on hand-written journals, typed daily logs and memories I’ve downloaded from my brain.

Day 1

The final stop before arriving at the Albergue was the Mercadona in Leon – to stock up on leche de coco and other last-minute supplies. That was one ingredient that was missing from the local supermarkets the year before. I wanted to be able to make my famous coconut curry.

My nerves heightened as the moment of the arrival quickly approached. I was mostly nervous to see who I would be working with. Last year, I worked with an Italian that spoke neither English nor Spanish. It was a challenging experience, but we made it work. Who would it be this year?

I pulled off the highway and entered the familiar town of Bercianos del Real Camino. “I don’t need GPS!” I thought to myself, as I quickly became lost in the maze of narrow streets that comprise the pueblo. I pulled up to the Albergue and it looked the same as ever.

It was a whirlwind first day. Meeting the current Hospitaleros, Sofia and Cindy. They showed me the ropes, explained the processes and gave updates on the pilgrims. It is essentially a 12 hour crash course in how to run an albergue. I had done it before, so I understood the general functioning of the albergue – but each year is different. The fun part of the experience is that the previous crew will show you what they did, tell you how it is done (as if there is only one way to do it) – and then you promptly forget everything they told you and create your own system that magically works.

I met Jose Luiz and Leila – retirees in their 60’s from Rio de Janeiro, Brasil. They were both fellow Camino nerds with a cheerful disposition – just like me. We were all smiles as we exchanged nervous looks in anticipation of the chaos that was sure to follow over the next 15 days. We were able to mostly communicate in Spanish – so it was already and improvement over last year.

The first night, I had extreme insomnia. Too much excitement! New place! There was also a giant moth in my room, flapping around and keeping me up all night.

My humble accommodations on the second floor of the albergue. At least it was a private room; it would be impossible to sleep in bunk beds with pilgrims for 15 straight days.

Day 2

The first full day was a whirlwind. Things were a bit chaotic as the 3 of us tried to figure out our own roles, the systems, the chores – there is no playbook.

We met the same characters as last year: Emilio, the friendly neighbor and Jorge, the helpful “manager” of the Albergue (and the local priest). They both remembered me and were excited that I was back for round 2.

We drove to Dia to stock up on supplies. Jose Luiz was very much on board with mostly vegan items. He confessed that he went several years without eating beef – it was only on a trip to America that he succumbed to the temptation at a McDonalds.

The pilgrims were happy – there was lots of smiles and enthusiastic helpers. I led the Camino-sharing ceremony and people were into it. Although we all spoke English to each other, it was interesting that all the pilgrims shared in their own language – so I didn’t understand anything they said. But, as the activity goes, we listen with our heart not our mind. Pilgrim D shared that he was trying to rebuild his life after the death of his spouse. He moved countries and began a new life; but questions if was the “right” thing to do. He is homesick and wonders if he should stay or go. He’s walking the Camino to help him gain clarity on some of these questions.

The previous hospitaleros warned us that some of the cafeteras were in very poor condition. On our very first morning, I tested them by ensuring water runs through the apparatus and that they close tightly – they seemed to be in working order. I loaded one with coffee and water and stepped out of the room for a second. A few minutes later I heard a loud “BANG” that sounded like a mini-bomb went off. I ran into the kitchen and the cafetera had exploded! There were coffee grounds covering the entire kitchen. The walls, the ceiling, the dishes – every possible surface area was stained with coffee. I frantically wiped down as much as I could – horrified and slightly amused at such a comically terrible start to the quincena. Day one – coffee explodes….this is going to be a long 15 days!

Emilio’s Bodega as seen from the inside of the Library (converted to a storage room for excess pews and Patrick’s gear).

The 3 of us nervously putter around in the entryway as we wait for our first wave of pilgrims. Jose Luiz strokes the guitar and Leila looks on.

Day 3

At 10:30AM there was already over 10 pilgrims lined up. I knew it would be a big day. It took almost 3 hours to check everyone in – and we ended up with 50 pilgrims – a record for us. Luckily, it was a great group – Ausies, Kiwis, Swiss, Spanish, Basque – just to name a few. All smiles, good vibes and extraordinary teamwork.

It was the first day that I decided to act like the CEO of the albergue and hired pilgrims for individual roles such as Manager of Logistics, Manager of Salad and Manager of Cleaning. Each manager would then enlist the help of worker pilgrims to get the job done. No need to micromanage ever decision: delegation is my friend!

JL, from Bilbao, stood out as not only a super helpful pilgrim, but a kindred spirit; fellow lover of The Camino and Photography, we chatted excitedly about previous travels, how to capture that perfect candid moment and the wonderful coincidences that always seem to happen on The Camino.

Jose Luiz, Leila and I were running the kitchen. We made a lentil, vegetable, chorizo, pilgrim slop (with a separated vegan option for the vegetarians). I put on some swing music and Leila immediately started dancing to it. She’s never learned Lindy Hop but definitely has potential.

Pilgrim H arrived 5 minutes before dinner started. He looked sad, exhausted and tired. I told him that we already had 50 people, so it would be hard for him to have a bed. He asked “Can I just wait out the rain here and eat my snack?” “Of course!” I told him without hesitation. Dinner was about to start and the dining room was bustling with life, people and warmth. This poor guy was soaking wet, eating a sad piece of processed food in the entryway bench and looked like he was having a rough day. I quickly chatted with my fellow hospis and we agreed to make room for him – for dinner and for the night. “Come join us from dinner, friend. And you have a bed too – as long as you don’t mind sleeping on a mat.” He was grateful for the invitation and confessed he hadn’t planned to walk so long – but he was having some sort of conflict with other pilgrims and needed to get away from a toxic situation. I was happy to provide him with some shelter from the physical elements as well as the emotional turmoil that he was surely going through. After dinner, he ended up grabbing the guitar and putting on an impromptu sing-along performance; myself and another pilgrim joined in for the nostalgic one hit wonder “All-Star” by Smashmouth.

Pilgrim Patty – an Irish lad in his 70’s. Always had a giant grin on his face, quick to a laugh and constantly moving. I sat with him briefly during dinner and he told me a hilarious and touching story. He went to a pilgrim mass at a church on the Camino and a Zulu woman sang. The sound of her voice was the most magical thing he’s ever heard. “I’ve cried 5 times in my life, and that was one of them. It was so beautiful.” He then told everyone they needed to go to the next pilgrim mass… “…we went to the next one and it was rubbish, a terrible waste of time!” He then burst out laughing. It’s so true, it’s impossible to recreate experiences – sometimes they just happen and are beyond your control – and beyond the control to recreate what you first experienced.

Dinner was a lot of work but it was a smashing success. Everyone collaborated. Pilgrims were jumping over each other to help; chop veggies, set the table, clean up, mop – anything that needed to be done. We got plenty of compliments and the crowd was filled with joy, smiles and laughs.

Pilgrim Jay was assigned “Manager of breakfast”. Him and Pilgrim Ian joined forces – having a lengthy discussion on the placement of the toaster to maximize breakfast serving efficiency. I told them I wanted a powerpoint on my desk at 7AM tomorrow showing the results of their experiments.

He dressed like a traditional pilgrim and was walking back to his home in Switzerland, after arriving in Santiago (also from his home). He passionately told me about his journey – that he never planned to walk home after reaching Santiago. It wasn’t until a woman offered to pay for his flight back home – that he instantly knew he had to walk. He was one of the only pilgrims that offered to stay later in the morning to help with the cleaning chores; mopping the bathrooms and showers. During the candelight ceremony, he didn’t say anything – just held the candle for 1-2 minutes in a silent meditation. His eyes seemed on fire, an uncanny way of seeing the world, he was clearly a man on fire with passion for his journey – living purely in the present and taking it one step at a time.

During my free time, I wandered past a house in the opposite direction of the Camino. I found a man, who must have been in his 90’s, hobbling around with a pick axe. I walked past him and gave him a friendly “Buenos dias”. He was so excited to see me, he could barely get the words out. He eagerly told me about another pilgrim he met from Alaska and proceeded to barrage me with all sorts of questions about North and South American Geography, the prices of things, how long/how much a plane costs, are there crocodiles in Alaska, where is cuba, how far is miami from cuba, etc. He was constantly chuckling and swearing – saying “me cago, me cago en esto, me cago en aquello”. He asked how much a plane ticket is to U.S.; I said 500 euros and he said “how many in pesetas”? Met his wife too, she was rather chipper and excited to show me their pet cats.

I assigned JL the role of “Manager of Logistics” and clarified that we need to set up the dining room to hold 52 people. He jumped to action and executed on the plan with military-precision – moving a large bench with his bare hands, forming a team of helpers to set the table, aligning the chairs and ensure all the logistics of table-setting were carried out with the utmost eye to detail and efficiency.

The pilgrims serve as free labor – the hospitaleros can’t do it alone! We set up chopping stations and the pilgrims form teams to prepare the veggies. It makes cooking much easier – all it takes is throwing ingredients inside a giant gruel pot, adding flame, spices, oil then tasting and adjusting as necessary.

All three of us were smiling ear to ear as the rambunctious and friendly crowd took turns chanting our names “PATRICK! Patrick! Patrick! JOSE LUIZ! Jose Luiz! Jose Luiz! LEILA! Leila! Leila!”

First impressions of this pilgrim was that he was a grumpy, grizzled Camino veteran that wouldn’t participate in the communal activities. I couldn’t have been more wrong – he was the first to offer help and carry out tasks even when no one asked him to. On the Camino, never judge a book by its cover.

Friendly Irish lads that helped out in the Kitchen as well as giving moral support to the Hospitaleros – the one on the right gave an impromptu speech thanking everyone for being their and recognizing the work we do to make it possible. It was a touching gesture.

50 pilgrims and 44 beds – a handful had to sleep in the chapel. It looked like a fun slumber party – everyone sleeping on the ground next to each other.

The crew. Watching the traditional sunset. We would watch it nearly every day for the entire 15 days. It was an interesting experience. Each day, the plan was the same, but the day would be radically different depending on the weather, the pilgrims, our interior states, random chance. Groundhog day, but not quite.

Moments before closing the Albergue at 10PM sharp.

Day 4

After the morning chores and team meeting, I escaped for a quick bike ride to decompress. When I returned around 11:30, there were already pilgrims lined up! Between 9am-1:30pm, it is the only free time the Hospitaleros get – so I try to avoid pilgrims. “We open at 1:30!”

Jose Luiz, Leila and I had a nice lunch. We became fast friends and quickly became comfortable around each other. We’re easy to laugh, be silly, sarcastic – but also very willing to work hard, get the job done, communicate and listen to each other. JL was particularly interested in eating more plant-based and declared “we are all vegans at this albergue” with a smile. Leila and I enjoyed our beer during lunch, while JL preferred his wine. It became a little tradition – to eat lunch together before the opening at 1:30.

I felt slightly less frenetic and chaotic today. I made a point of doing everything with intention. The first day, it felt like I was pulled in 12 directions and could barely finish a task before starting the next. I tried to make a point of asking myself “what is it I’m trying to do right now” in order to keep me on track.

Another day, another group of smiling pilgrims. Plenty of helpers and collaboration. I made a point to sit down and eat dinner with the pilgrims. It’s a nice chance to chat, connect, be in touch with the Camino and relax for a moment. At times, it can be exhausting. It feels like you’re a celebrity – pilgrims are curious about you – you’re different than a normal pilgrim. You’re a hospitalero. The attention is nice but also tiring – it’s normal to have the same conversations and questions night after night. I made a point of trying to shift the focus to the pilgrim, asking about why they walked the Camino and how it was going. Each person is an entire world of fascinating stories, experiences, thoughts and desires.

Dinner started a bit later and before we finished cleaning up, we noticed the beautiful color in the sky. “We’re missing the sunset! Let’s go…NOW!” Leila exclaimed. Even though we hadn’t finished cleaning, we all booked it out of the dining room and ran to the hillside. The sunset was stunning. It’s important to be flexible in this job – it’s ok to clean after the sunset even though the “schedule” says otherwise. Improvisation and flexibility are the keys to success!

Random pilgrim conversation: Jared, the Texan. Traveling after 4 years working. “We live in a time when it’s so easy to travel and stay in touch. why would you not do it? Why would you waste your life in an office?”

La despedida. I made a point to finish my morning oatmeal while sitting in the registration chair and seeing the pilgrims off. They usually filtered out at their own pace, so it was never too crowded. The cool air felt nice as I enjoyed a relaxed breakfast. It was rewarding to receive hugs and handshakes of thanks for providing the experience. It was also interesting to just watch and observe their actions and facial expressions as they embarked on a new day. By the end of it, the albergue would return to being completely devoid of pilgrims – only the 3 of us remained.

“I could do this forever – I don’t want it to end.” -Pilgrim B.

After a few days, we enacted a more structured “Welcome”. First offer drinks, get the pilgrims to sit down and relax, introduce ourselves, explain that we are volunteers, explain how the donation system worked and then end with the schedule. After all that, we would begin checking everyone in. Pilgrims can arrive very tired, hungry and grumpy – sometimes they want to rush through the process. It’s our job to calm them down, offer them refreshments and educate them that they aren’t at a typical albergue.

Four friends from Aragon, in their 60’s/70’s. Gruff mountain men who didn’t show a lot of expressions on arrival. Well, they were probably hungry, tired and could not wait to get checked in and eat their “comida”. They’ve done a number of Caminos together – but don’t always walk together. They happily agreed to help out with “la compra” – a quick trip to the local store to buy some last-minute provisions for dinner. Despite their taciturn and rough nature, it was evident that they had so much love for each other and for The Camino.

I enjoyed the ‘quiet time’, after check-in but before dinner prep. The pilgrims would be showered, rested and have a bit of time to relax and laze about the Albergue.

No wifi means more interpersonal reactions. I always enjoyed seeing pilgrims interact, meet each other, share moments and stories – knowing that they would likely be seeing more of each other for the next 2 weeks until reaching Santiago.

This lovely group of Camino Friends worked together to make an excellent salad. The couple on the left was planning to get married along The Camino! I was stoked to hear their plan and we commiserated about how stressful and expensive wedding planning could be. I gave them high fives of moral support for their decision. Brilliant!

We managed to make a respectable dinner and received several compliments. A highlight of the day was when we were trying to transfer the spaghetti from the pasta pot to the sauce pot – we created a giant mess. All three of us tried to help, but it was a near-disaster! We were all nervous, dinner was supposed to start in minutes – and we couldn’t help but crack up laughing as we frantically tried to create a decent meal for pilgrims. We still had beginner jitters – at time feeling like we were running around like chickens with our heads cut off. It was a nice bonding moment for the 3 of us – we realized that we shared a common work ethic – but also a sense of humor and a desire to have fun and not take it too seriously.

The daily sunset ritual. Here I am stretching while capturing a time-lapse.

Pages: 1 2 3 4