At the start of the year, I made a bold plan for 2025 that included a bike tour, multiple options for ultras, a 14-day meditation retreat, a “vanlife” road trip through northern Spain and a visit to the U.S. As the year progressed, it became clear that I was being overly ambitious; there just wasn’t enough time or days in the year to do it all! After committing to Monumental Gravel in Belgium, I knew only had a small window to squeeze in a bike tour. Instead of treating them like 2 events, what if I ride my bike to the race and check off the box of the bike tour as well? After doing the math, I realized that it was way too far to bike to Belgium and then compete in an ultra. I couldn’t let it go and kept researching other options. Would it be possible to take trains to shorten the distance? After hours of research on google maps, I had compiled a complex spreadsheet which showed the possible legs of a train which I could take a fully assembled bike on. The verdict was in – it was possible to combine cycling and trains to get myself to Belgium. It wouldn’t be a pure bike tour, but an adventure nonetheless – a great way to feel the freedom of bike travel and still have a structured goal and distance. The trains would give me flexibility to skip mundane sections, give my legs a rest and keep my pacing on track for an arrival before the start of the race. The only thing left to do was buy more gear; Tailfin mini-panniers and Cube Acid fork bags would complete my setup.
Fleeing Spain
Early morning departure to start off the trip – found excellent gravel north of Gandia. Wetlands riding. Saw two adorable baby jabalí. Ride down memory lane from the pandemic days, ripping through La Albufera, El Saler and Ruzafa. North of Valencia, felt hot, tired and finished. Quick check on google maps alerted me that I could grab a regional train nearby, earlier than I had planned. The train was crowded with people and bikes – but I was happy to end the ride. Ended up meeting a few fellow bike travelers on the train – it was fun to share our stories and relate to each other’s adventures.
The next day was coastal riding in Taragona. I got stuck on a 2km stretch of beautiful coastline north of Tortosa which a bike has no business on. Multiple portages with panniers to cross path and not fall into sea. Harnessed my inner buddhist monk persona to go step by step while lugging back up and down jagged rocks. Train to BCN for a layover and lovely catch-up with an old friend. Onward to Girona.
Quick stop in Girona and then early departure for a stunning bucolic ride through Catalan farmland. Post card visuals. Checked out Dalís egg house, what a brilliant wacko. Delicious falafel and then train to the border.
Day 4. 5:30AM start. Peaceful darkness and beautiful sea views. Border crossing into France, windy and thrilling. Perfect sun and light. Feeling the change of country! Everything is historic, oozing with charm, wonderfully decaying and has an extra touch of elegance and design. Long day to meet up with Warmshowers host and fellow bike nerd in a small French village. Young people and families live there, full of life. Buildings are 3 stories, high ceilings – built for wine making and living.
It was a bit challenging to get into the rhythm for the first 4 days. The trains were fine, but oftentimes crowded, hot and uncomfortable. When you change the mode of transport, it changes the trip. It no longer feels like you’re on a bike ride; you’re just a common traveler on a train – which isn’t necessarily a bad thing by itself – but juxtaposed next to the pure freedom of a bicycle and it feels a bit constraining. It’s like re-entering the default world after being in another dimension. It can be jarring. There’s people near you, stale air, and you’re going unnaturally fast. On the positive side you’re going much faster than on a bike – which made it possible for me to do the trip!
The lure of the French Countryside pulled me in
I noticed an immediate change when entering French. It just felt more exotic and rustic! I realized that I should have just gone as quick as possible to the border and not messed around with Spain – I already know it. The early morning departure to cross the border was one of the highlights of the trip.
I had a wonderful time with my Warmshowers host, it was great to get some human interaction, share bike stories and see his charming French village. It was there that he planted the idea that I check out Mt. Ventoux – an epic cycling climb that towers over the Provence region. I decided it was worth it to take a slight detour, combining a few trains and some hard pedaling.
After a quick stop in the beautiful city of Avignon, I caught another regional train to get me close to Bedoin – the launching point for climbing Ventous and exploring the region. I realized that while I enjoy seeing cities, I don’t need to spend more than a few hours there. It’s perfect on a bike, I can cruise around, see the sights, grab a quick bite and be on my way! Anyway, Bedoin is a bustling and charming village that must have the highest per capita bike shops that I’ve ever seen! It’s such a cycling destination that it seems like everyone is there to climb the mountain and check it off their bucket list.
I woke up before the sun came up to avoid the crowds and have it all to myself. As I started the climb, my bike computer alerted me that I was pacing behind Tadej Pogacar – thanks for the very helpful motivational tactic, Garmin!
For most of the ride, there was no one around. It was peaceful, beautiful and increasingly freezing. At the summit, the wind was roaring and I felt frozen. I couldn’t imagine it doing it outside of winter! On the way up, there was no one around – but I got goosebumps thinking about pros that rode this same road, finishing a stage – where surely there were 1,000’s of people cheering them on. What a feeling that must have been!
On the way down, I saw the hoards of tourists riding up; all shapes and sizes. Electric bikes, touring bikes, road bikes, families, teenagers. It felt like Disneyland. Glad I woke up early!
It was my first time camping on the trip and it was fantastic. The campsite was on a hill overlooking the town, close enough for easy access but still felt quite and secluded. My only neighbors were a dutch couple that sat and read all day. Not a bad vacation at all. Bedoin is cycling heaven, tons of stores selling anything and everything a cyclist could want. Lots of nice places to eat and drink as well.
I enjoyed having 2 nights in the same spot and not have to be constantly moving for once. I took some time to ‘relax’ which consisted of maniacally trying to plan my next move. I had a date and location that I needed to be – but also wanted to do another side trip to climb more epic mountains. There simply wasn’t enough time. I realized I needed to get some serious train traveling in to be able to reach my destination. It was a bit disappointing and felt constricting, but this is what I signed up for. I made the plan to bike back to the train station and high-tail it north towards the French city of Lyon.
Go North: Take me to the river
I went North. Another train to the city of Lyon. It’s large and vibrant! Reminded me of Valencia except with an actual river. Lots of people outdoors, enjoying the summer. Hip bars and coffee shops. Beautiful and historic buildings. I took advantage of a late checkout to do a mini-camino through the city, enjoying moving by foot for a change and letting the bike rest.
It was a blur of riding and trains. Usually, the day would start out great – early morning light, cycling, experiencing new lands and adventures. Inevitably, I would have to catch a train and my mood would drop. It became more of a slog, the trains were often packed with cyclists and I questioned what the point of it all was. On any trip, there are highs and lows!
Before I knew it, I was in wine country. Rolling hills and endless vineyards. It couldn’t be more idyllic. I bought Dijon mustard in the lovely city of Dijon, eating it on a baguette. Could it get more French than that?
I found the best campsite along the Moselle river. It was a crowded holiday weekend but there was still plenty of space, especially in the cyclist ‘free camp’ plot of land. I met a super friendly and adorable father/son pair from Germany. They were so stoked to be out camping and cycling. We chatted in their limited English about their bike adventures and my upcoming race. I met another 2-wheeled traveler from the Netherlands; heading south on his dirtbike. It’s nice to have those little interactions, share some moments with fellow travelers.
The campsite was right next to the Moselle river, beautiful, peaceful and sunny. The next day was some of the best riding in France – I was on car-free bike lane for most of the day, only views of the river and trees.
